Full Steam Ahead

On occasion, a vision needs time to age. Time to ferment in the mind and slowly build flavor, character, and body. Full Steam Ahead fulfills my original vision for this line and is a stellar, small wires adventure.

Shared first half of Three Sheets to the Wind. Start out by climbing up underclings, side pulls, and flake jugs to the first bolt. A #1 TCU can be placed lower but isn't exactly obvious. The low crux involves a big, tenuous, undercling move to a very high wrapper jug. This move can feel pretty bizarre to set up for, but once you find it, the movement is pretty textbook.

Surf up and right to a very thin seam, passing one more bolt. Your first good wires will be a little ways after the second bolt. Summon your technical side and then move left to another seam placing difficult wires and a blind orange TCU. Pull the second crux, and continue edging up and firing in thin wires until you get to below the roof. Clip a bolt here (which is more there to keep the rope from getting jammed in the roof crack), and exit out the left side of the roof passing a few more gear options, jugs and finally the anchors. 

I think if you lead Lord Humongous to the top of the pillar, you could lead up to the anchors of Full Steam Ahead and then set a TR, if so desired.

At least it’s a light rack. The gear is not overly technical, but it does take some work finding and placing. Single set of TCUs from blue to orange, and a #1 camalot can be used in a horizontal up high. Many, many small and medium wires!! Offsets are a plus. Sliders could be useful, though I didn’t need any on the FA. The smallest wire I placed was a #3 BD stopper. The placements are good when you find them. Modern tiny cams will also help.

Fixed biner anchor.