Full Steam Ahead
Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, Wade Forrest|
|Page Views:||1,104 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionSometimes a vision needs time to ferment. Time to age. Time to slowly build flavor... Full Steam Ahead is such a line, and firmly supplants, Three Sheets to the Wind, which was a route I established years and years ago, but never finished the direct way I wanted it to for various reasons. Full Steam Ahead takes on the direct line to the cap roof, and then an exposed twist out left to gain the anchors.
Start out by climbing up underclings, sidepulls, and flake jugs to the first bolt (a #1 TCU can be placed lower, but isn't exactly obvious) The low crux involves a big, tenuous, undercling move to a very high wrapper jug. This move can feel pretty bizarre to set up for, but once you find it the movement is pretty textbook.
Surf up and right to a very thin seam, passing one more bolt. Your first good wires will be a little ways after the second bolt. Summon your technical side, and move up, and then left to another seam placing difficult wires and a blind orange TCU. Pull the second crux, and continue edging up, and firing in thin wires until you get to below the roof. Clip a bolt here (which is more there to keep the rope from getting jammed in the roof crack), and exit out the left side of the roof passing a few more gear options, jugs, and finally the anchors. And don't get sucked into the off width on the left at the mid point. Stay true to the line, stay true to the line...
I think if you lead Lord Humongous to the top of the pillar, you could lead up to the anchors of Full Steam Ahead, and then set a TR, if so desired.
ProtectionThe gear is not overly technical, but it does take some work finding and placing. Single set of TCUs from blue to orange, and a #1 camalot can be used in a horizontal up high. Many, many thin/medium wires!! The smallest I placed though was a #3 BD, and the placements are good when you find them.
Fixed biner anchor.