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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 1,222 total · 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

On occasion, a vision needs time to age. Time to ferment in the mind and slowly build flavor, character, and body. Full Steam Ahead firmly supplants, Three Sheets to the Wind, which was a route I established years and years ago, but never finished the direct way I wanted it to for various reasons. Full Steam Ahead takes on the direct line to the cap roof, and then an exposed twist out left to gain the anchors.

Start out by climbing up underclings, sidepulls, and flake jugs to the first bolt (a #1 TCU can be placed lower, but isn't exactly obvious) The low crux involves a big, tenuous, undercling move to a very high wrapper jug. This move can feel pretty bizarre to set up for, but once you find it the movement is pretty textbook.

Surf up and right to a very thin seam, passing one more bolt. Your first good wires will be a little ways after the second bolt. Summon your technical side and then move left to another seam placing difficult wires and a blind orange TCU. Pull the second crux, and continue edging up, and firing in thin wires until you get to below the roof. Clip a bolt here (which is more there to keep the rope from getting jammed in the roof crack), and exit out the left side of the roof passing a few more gear options, jugs, and finally the anchors. And don't get sucked into the off width on the left at the mid point. Stay true to the line, stay true to the line...

I think if you lead Lord Humongous to the top of the pillar, you could lead up to the anchors of Full Steam Ahead, and then set a TR, if so desired.

Location

To the right of Lord Humongous.

Protection

At least it’s a light rack. The gear is not overly technical, but it does take some work finding and placing. Single set of TCUs from blue to orange, and a #1 camalot can be used in a horizontal up high. Many, many thin/medium wires!! Offsets are a plus. Sliders could be useful. The smallest I placed was a #3 BD stopper. The placements are good when you find them.

Fixed biner anchor.

Photos

got this one done recently. Fell once at lower crux and then immediately tried again from ground and onsighted the rest! Great heady climbing with a cool roof finish! Pretty exciting climbing! Oct 23, 2011
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12-
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12-
I used red and blue ballnuts which made the route feel more pg than pg-13. Little wallnuts and offsets served me well too. After the first bolt crux, the climbing is technical 5.11/11+ climbing with small accurate gear placements. This route was very fun, engaging and unique climbing on stellar rock all the way until the end. A waterfall classic in my opinion! Oct 18, 2013
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
I found the lower crux to be very height dependent. I'm 5'8 and the hold (not exactly a jug) up and left is just out of my reach when doing the big undercling deadpoint. Also, it's doable without them but I'd bring a bunch of sliders and RPs. Apr 3, 2017

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