Full Steam Ahead
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.93143, -111.73278 |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010 |
| Page Views: | 3,277 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Full Steam Ahead fulfills my original vision for this line and is a stellar, small gear adventure if you can handle the pressure.
Shared first half of Three Sheets to the Wind. Start out climbing up underclings, side pulls, and flake jugs to the first bolt. A #1 TCU can be placed lower but isn't exactly obvious. The low crux involves a big, tenuous, undercling move to a very high wrapper jug. This move can feel pretty bizarre to set up for, but once you find it, the movement is pretty textbook.
Surf up and right to a very thin seam passing one more bolt. Your first good wires will be a little ways after the second bolt. Summon your technical side and then move left to another seam system placing difficult wires and a blind orange TCU. Pull the second crux and continue edging up and firing in thin wires until you get below the roof. Clip a bolt here (which is more there to keep the rope from getting jammed in the roof crack), then exit out the left side of the roof passing a few more gear options, jugs and finally the anchors.
I think if you lead Lord Humongous to the top of the pillar, you could lead up to the anchors of Full Steam Ahead and then set a TR, if so desired.
Protection
At least it’s a light rack. The gear is not overly technical, but it does take some work finding and placing. Single set of TCUs from blue to orange, and a #1 camalot can be used in a horizontal up high. Many, many small and medium wires!! Offsets are a plus. Sliders could be useful, though I didn’t need any on the FA. The smallest wire I placed was a #3 BD stopper. The placements are good when you find them. Modern tiny cams will also help.
Fixed biner anchor.



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