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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brother from another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin
Page Views: 941 total · 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

A fine pitch despite the blocky, broken start. This all natural gear line has some excellent, sequential climbing with precise gear placements for the grade.

Start right of The Harder They Come, in a scrappy dihedral with a sycamore growing out of it. Move up past blocks and left under roofs. Get established in the steep fingers of a left facing dihedral. A #0 and #2 TCU give you some comfort in the beginning of the fingers and be ready with a couple more #2 TCUs as you continue up. After the fingers section you will pass a horizontal break and a hands pod- #2 Camalot. Rest up and start looking for thin wires above you. Be ready to place and trust several #2 stoppers. A move up will allow you to place a #3 stopper. Be smart with you feet and pull through the crux placing another REALLY good #5 stopper or similar sized offset. One or two more #1 TCUs will give you a sense of solidity as you crank off the airy last moves to the anchors.

Location [Edit]

To the right of The Harder They Come.

Protection [Edit]

The whole range of TCUs bulking up on the finger sizes, A #2 camalot will find a home mid route. Small, medium wires.

Photos

JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Several 11's up here don't give me the problems this route does... And on tricky tiny gear at the crux. Just sayin. Jan 20, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
It's what I would call "sequential", with both the moves and gear.... Jan 21, 2014

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