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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brother from another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer- Early 90’s
Page Views: 1,304 total · 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions In Place and Closures Scheduled for 8:00AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

One of the original 5.12s at the Waterfall! This all natural gear line, starts in a thin hands crack through steep blocky rock. A section of vertical fingers follows until the crack tightens down at a very important rest stance.

From the rest stance you will be able to leisurely try and find some very small wires and RP’s. More mystery gear has been talked about in the comments below. The bouldery, cryptic, and powerful crux on side pulls and gas pockets will test you mentally and physically. A pumpy finish adds flavor to this classic recipe.

Location [Edit]

Shares a staging area with Barbarian Rising,and Tainted Love which is characterised by large jagged boulders and sycamores.

Protection [Edit]

Double set of small to medium cams,+wires, +small wires for the crux.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
  5.12a/b
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
  5.12a/b
Crux is quite sequential. Make sure you scope it out carefully at the no-hands rest before launching into it. I was not able to clean my stopper that protected the crux sequence which will make onsight attempts a whole lot more pleasurable. There is a huge difference in difficulty between onsighting and flashing this route. Seemed more like straight 5.12 than 12- to me. Aug 2, 2009
Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12-
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12-
a large selection of small brass stoppers and an optional blue slider nut made this one feel safe and reasonable. One of the better lines for the grade that I've gotten on at the waterfall. Nov 11, 2014
t.schwartz
  5.12- PG13
t.schwartz  
  5.12- PG13
Great route...Bring the smallest brass you have if you don't own sliders (I do not). I also found a 000 C3 placement mid crux. Tricky crux, but is onsightable because of the rest before it. Nice little head trip on this one. Nov 3, 2015
Raines
  5.12-
Raines  
  5.12-
There's at least a 00 C3 and red ballnut placement before pulling the crux in addition to the smaller gear others have mentioned. Don't be turned away from this one. Oct 2, 2016
Reed Johnson
  5.12b PG13
Reed Johnson  
  5.12b PG13
Lovely lovely route. Easy traverse from Tainted Love to set up a TR on this ol' reptilian crack. Glad I did because of the crux. Would have got in my head for sure doing the first few moves over my smallest nut. Found an awesome stance mid crux to place a 00. DO IT BY GOLLY. IT'S GREAT Jan 30, 2018

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