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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Dan Foster, Seth Dyer 2001/2002
Page Views: 1,187 total · 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

"The harder they come, the harder they fall, one and all"

My second FA at the Waterfall, this adventurey, all natural gear line features some truly awesome hard climbing on the finger splitter top section, though you're going to have to use your head to get there.

To the right of Lochs Of Dread. Climb broken piller/OW crack to base of dihedral with a small overhang in it. Work your way up to the roof, and a weird #1 Camalot... After the roof there are some tight moves in the left facing dihedral which are probably easier for a shorter frame, but the gear gets better. At the 2/3 mark you will have to make some cruxy moves right to gain the finger splitter, and then enjoy the sustained finger jams, pockets, and stemming to the anchor.

You just can't go wrong with a little Jimmy Cliff now and then.

Location

Right side

Protection

Double set, wires

Photos

Keith Beckley 1
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Keith Beckley 1   Santa Fe, New Mexico
Man, i remember that being an exciting RP. Done well before the era of bolt additions in the area. We used to always think that there would be other amazing lines. Then, JJ Sclick and Joel Unema made it happen. I don't liven Flagstaff any more but cant wait to get back and try some of the newer lines. Apr 12, 2018

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