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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder they Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kindness T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 2,016 total · 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A remarkable and varied route that that throws a little bit of everything at you. Another in a list of routes at the Waterfall that are as .11d as the grade gets.

Starts to the right of A Wonderful Life on parallel, vertical seams with a distinct mini arete in between them. Expect bouldery moves right off the deck followed by more hard face climbing until the angle backs off a bit. Work up and slightly right past layback moves and bolts to a tricky little move at the lip. Bolts, and a #.75.

Move up the thin crack in front of you with jugs on the right. This crack quickly turns to hands and leads you to a small roof. Figure out a way to move right around the roof passing a bolt, and some wild moves. Get your right foot in the low pocket! Move swiftly passing large slick holds.

At the next break, take a few breaths, and stick to the finger crack, using the larger holds on the right for your feet! BIG stemming if you can span it. Enjoy the near perfect finger pods and stemming up the last bit of steep, hard climbing. Turning the top bulge is the last crux of several.

This pitch can now be linked with Aquarius Rising. Still 5.11+ though the AR finish is easier than the standard Resurrection finish.

Location

At the far right side of the Right Wall, look for conspicuous vertical start with bolts.

Protection

The route begins with bolts, and .5 camalot. Small-medium TCUs, a couple of hand sized pieces, medium wires. Long draws and runners are very helpful.
Nice work JJ, must admit that this was more challenging than I had guessed from the ground, hope to get back up there and send soon. Oh yeah, slings and nuts would have been nice to have! Nov 22, 2009
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Wow! My favorite pitch at The Waterfall thus far. Vision quest for me for sure, and I agree, felt as though I'd climbed three or four pitches by the anchor. I didn't use anything larger than a red #1 Camalot. Apr 1, 2014

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