Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 4,133 total · 22/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 17, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A remarkable and varied route that throws quite a bit of technical face(?) climbing at you in the first half and an amazing steep stem box up high. Starts to the right of A Wonderful Life on parallel, vertical seams with a distinct mini arete in between them. Expect bouldery moves right off the deck followed by more hard face climbing until the angle backs off a bit.

Continue following bolts to a thin crack with jugs on the right. This crack quickly turns to hands and leads you to a small roof. Figure out a way to move right around the roof passing a bolt and some wild moves. Move swiftly passing large slick holds.

At the next break, take a few breaths and stick to the finger crack, using the larger holds on the right for your feet. Big stemming when you can span it. Enjoy the near perfect finger pods and up the last bit of steep, hard climbing. Turning the top bulge is the last crux of several. Possibly a split grade .11d/.12a. There is super tech beta for the first section, but I’ve also seen plenty of people muscle through it relatively quickly during onsight runs.

This pitch can now be linked with Aquarius Rising. Still hard in the start of course though the AR finish is easier than the standard Resurrection finish. This link would have less appeal than its opposite.

Location Suggest change

At the far right side of the Right Wall, look for conspicuous vertical start with bolts.

Protection Suggest change

The route begins with bolts, and .5 camalot. Small-medium TCUs, a couple of hand sized pieces. A set of medium sized wires. Long draws and runners are very helpful.

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