Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: J Unema, D Bloom
Page Views: 1,485 total · 29/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

A day at the Waterfall is incomplete without a visit to the Bootlegger! This new mixed addition to the Right Wall offers a variety of movement on great rock and is just plain fun. Begin in the large corner beneath the Consensual Hex/Dr. Octagon roof and trend left into the blocky system on the left side of the corner. Continue up through interesting calcite-covered blocks through a bulge roof, passing 2 bolts to gain a face. Clip another bolt and move into the splitter hand crack that leads to a small ledge. From the small ledge bust right with a hand traverse on a slab to gain the beautiful corner above. Sink your hands and fingers into the cracks until they pinch down and get ready for some wild gas-pocket jug climbing and stemming!

Location

Right of Proud Father, left of Consensual Hex

Protection

The start takes a handful of cams from 0 C3 to #1 C4. Three bolts protect the middle, and the finish takes a double set cams from tips to #0.75 C4

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
This was always on my list, but I guess a little too far down. I had wanted to at least do the right hand variation finish to Proud Father, which is now the top of Bootlegger. I'm assuming the link up works? I'm sure it would bump up the overall quality of Proud Father to exit right.

Good work you guys. The middle section looked pretty gnarly. Oct 9, 2014
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Yes! The end of this would make a great and longer finish to proud father! Oct 9, 2014
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.10+
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.10+
This thing has cleaned up real nice! Oct 21, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10+
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10+
This climbs much better than it looks from the ground. Feb 20, 2016
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11-
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11-
I always have a great time on this one. A great warm up since there are plenty of rests between harder moves. The stemming up top is out of this world fun! Feb 6, 2017
Reed Johnson
  5.11a
Reed Johnson  
  5.11a
My favorite warm up at the waterfall (maybe because I usually sport climb) but you really get a lil bit of everything, and can take pleasant rests all over. Hands, fingers, face climbing, stemming. Mmmmmmmmmm Jan 30, 2018