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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Mike Neri and Jim Heiden, 1976
Page Views: 716 total · 4/month
Shared By: paco on May 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Banana Peels is loaded with wet, loose, and licheny 5.8 chimneys! Maybe it is not the best route on Sundance.

The 1st pitch really isn't that bad but the 2nd pitch... has anyone done this?? We climbed straight up the nasty, left-facing o.w., chimney above. I'd be tempted to rate it 5.9 R/X and I didn't even finish the pitch. So, if for some reason you want to climb the 1st pitch of Banana Peels, I'd strongly advise the 90 foot rap to the ground or maybe finish on Kor's Flake.

Protection

Bring a standard rack up to a #4 Camalot.

Photos

Tim C
Lakewood, CO
  5.9 PG13
Tim C   Lakewood, CO
  5.9 PG13
We tried to climb Kor's Flake but ended up on this for the first pitch. Both are chimneys with a chockstone in them at about the same size and very close to each other. I'd also say 5.9 for the chimney, but I was able to find gear when I needed it mostly. Aug 26, 2013
The 1st pitch, even though it was wet and dirty, was worthy, rate it strenuous 5.9. Jun 10, 2009
Stacy Bender
  5.8 PG13
Stacy Bender  
  5.8 PG13
I did the 1st pitch of this today with my wife, thinking, with my head up my butt, that I was on the 1st pitch of Kor's Flake. We bailed at the rap slings thinking that we had seriously under-estimated the route. Once we got down, I took another look my printed copy of the route and saw my mistake. As chimneys go, I actually liked it, but it was pumpy, and now we have to hump back up there again to do Kor's Flake. Jun 10, 2008