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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Ray Jardine, George Hurley, Chris Walker, 1969 FFA: Scott Woodruf, Mike Gilbert, Dan Hare, 1974
Page Views: 124 total · 1/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Jul 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

If you're looking for a harder, more dangerous way to start Turnkorner, this is a good option. The cool, varied climbing is interrupted infrequently by widely spaced and/or marginal gear placements. You can finish up the last few leads of Laura Scudders, instead of Turnkorner, for some additional funk/fear.

The upper 3 pitches of Turnkorner get the 10; the Turnkorner Direct pitches get the 5.9 R.

The real climbing starts off the top of the smaller of the two giant flakes leaning against the base of the wall. Instead of climbing the easy left side of the flake though, I would reccomend soloing the front face of the flake. This might serve to calibrate your head for what's to come.

From the top of the flake, place a couple small cams in the horizontals in the roof, and devise a way to pull onto the wall. On May 29, 2010 we fixed a blue TCU here (not on purpose). Once established above the roof, angle left to a right-facing corner system. You could belay in this corner somewhere, or continue on (recommended). This is where our experiences on the route diverge from the description in the Gillett guidebook. The book seems to describe following the corner as it arches out right, after a rightward jog, but I ended up pulling out left after the jog into another right-facing corner crack. This felt pretty hard. I then followed this corner up to a horizontal and past it to the right to gain a nice ledge. Belay here or keep going if you belayed in the corner below. Angle up and right to the blocky second belay on Turnkorner.

Do the last 3 pitches of Turnkorner.

Location

This route is between Turnkorner and Mr. President, starting from the top of the smaller of two giant flakes leaning against the base of the wall. After two independent pitches, it joins Turnkorner at its second belay.

Protection

Stanadard rack up to #4 Camalot.

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