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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Doug Snively and Cito Kilpatrick, 1980
Page Views: 2,392 total, 12/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Past the base of Grapevine (west) is an immense left facing arch. The first pitch of Eumenides climbs the left-most dihedral of this arch. The arch itself is composed of about 4-5 left-facing dihedrals, Progression climbs the second one from the right. This dihedral may also be identified by a beautiful white corner (only about 30' high) at the start of the second pitch (the crux).

Scramble up to the base of the dihedral.

P1: climb the interesting crack as it shoots up through featured green rock (lichens). This is a fun and well protected 5.8 pitch. The pitch ends at a spectacular stance at the base of the white corner.

P2: Lieback up the white corner to a flared hand jam, solve the crux and crank over a strange looking black flake. Although you can place a stopper every 2' in the white dihedral, the placements are flared and tricky and will pump you out. Continue on up a bombay chimney (5.8, 3.5" piece useful) with wild stemming moves to belay on a huge ledge.

At this point you are about 30' above the top of the second pitch of Grapevine, and you can continue on Grapevine. Or continue via ... [description supplied by Scott Kimball].

Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge to a fine, sitdown ledge.

Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a left-facing dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.

Pitch #5 Easy slabs.

Protection

Standard rack to 3.5".

Photos

Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Did this route today again and REALLY enjoyed it.

I very highly recommend going left on P4: the obvious LF corner is around 5.9 with really fun moves and great pro. Getting over the little roof at the end of the corner is the first crux (~10a and well protected). Above the roof, protection becomes a bit iffy/tricky but I felt pretty safe (use every option you get). There are a couple of insecure slabby moves with pinched flares up here (9+ or so). I thought this was the best pitch on the route. Not flaky at all.

BTW we did Slim Pickens two weeks earlier, and I thought that crux was way harder than the 10c move on Progression. I am quite tall (6'4"), and I think that the low-hand lieback crux on SP is a short's people move. At least that's my excuse and I'll stick to it! Jul 16, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome route! Green then red C3 off the ledge in the crux dihedral were solid first two pieces.

Did the whole route in 4 pitches pretty easily with a 60. Think it would have been better to trend hard right on the last pitch instead of heading straight up as we had to downclimb some grassy slot to get back right for the walk-off anyhow.

CL Sep 13, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The largest piece that you need for the crux pitch is a #3 Camalot. I brought a #4 Friend and didn't place it on the climb. The bombay chimney above the crux is fun and secure. It is also well protected with hexs and/or medium cams. Sep 28, 2008
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
Add this to your 'must do' list for Sundance. That includes the third and fourth pitches. Climb them. Climb Grapevine on another day, if you haven't already.
If you like to lieback -- and who doesn't -- you'll like this. Sew up the crux with your small wireds and dig into some of Lumpy's best white granite with a crux 150 feet off the floor. May 29, 2006
Indeed this 3 Star route does progress.

Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge ot a fine, sitdown ledge.

Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a Lf dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.

Pitch #5 Easy slabs. Jul 10, 2003