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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Layton Kor and Steve Komito, November, 1963
Page Views: 1,604 total, 8/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Named [Mr.] President, so the story goes, for its "devious" nature. Kor had a way with route names. Pitch two is superb, with a crux which feels more like something in Eldo than Lumpy. This was devious enough it required two visits for me to figure out. A great climb, worth the effort!

This route is on the far [left] of Turnkorner [Buttress], and starts up a wide-looking chimney.
P1. This chimney, though stemmable and only 5.9, is is still very awkward (being partly a blind flare), and not easy to protect. Best have your partner lead this.

P2. Pitch two is the business. Start up an innocent crack, which steepens up and then blanks out. Above, out of reach, the crack opens up and gets easy again, but meanwhile. . . . Not sure how much I should say about the crux. Ahem, well, the solution is not to keep throwing yourself at the blind section of crack right in front of you. I will say that. And the moves, once you commit, are strenuous and hard to reverse. Anyway, you reach welcome jugs after a few powerful moves (or next weekend for me), and steep 5.9 climbing gains easier (though exposed) ground, and a nice ledge.

P3. After this, the climb changes character and reverts to more regular Lumpy style. One more 5.9 pitch follows a crack system up. Wander to the saddle from here. Come to think of it, we may have rapped from the nice ledge back to the start of pitch two, then to the ground. Funny how I still remember the crux moves, but not the rest of the climb.

Protection

Regular selection of stuff up to fist size. Double ropes are nice for protecting the second pitch effectively.

Photos

Be sure to check out First Lady, an alternative pitch 4 in the list of Sundance climbs. Mar 23, 2016
SoBrave  
According to Steve Komito, this was first done shortly after the assassination of JFK (late November 1963), not in the late '50s. It is named as a tribute in JFK's honor, because his death had a strong affect on Steve Komito. Jan 7, 2015
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
My 1980 THATH-AA-AI-ATAH Lumpy guide by Chip Salaun and Scott Kimball says this:

5.10+ or 5.11. Layton Kor and Steve Komito, late '50s. FFA by Jeff Lowe and Ron Matous.

Originally rated 5.8+ or 5.9 with a 5.8 second lead, this route became the enigma of the ridge after dumping a half-dozen 5.10 and 11 leadeerers. The name seems to be of no consequence until one considers the rather political nature of the routee...that is, it is continuously misleading and never appears or acts like it looks... This is the first route I ever tried at Lumpy. Victor Creazzi, ex-Gunkie was into wide cracks. Rich Perch and I, also Gunkies, were on a road trip. Victor tooks us to Sundance to do Mr. President, 5.9. We did the first pitch and failed on the second pitch, which we figured was "real" 5.9. Jun 26, 2005
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
One of those routes you never forget, a real jewel.--Ross Dec 6, 2002