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Routes in Sundance Buttress
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[Redacted] T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonzo T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scrotum Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slim Pickens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Layton Kor and Steve Komito, November, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 2,708 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Feb 17, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details.
Details
2019 Seasonal closures are in place. Check with Backcountry Office (970-586-1242).
RMNP
6/12/15
K.Patterson 970-586-1363
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
RMNP
6/12/15
K.Patterson 970-586-1363
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
Description
Named [Mr.] President, so the story goes, for its "devious" nature. Kor had a way with route names. Pitch two is superb, with a crux which feels more like something in Eldo than Lumpy. This was devious enough it required two visits for me to figure out. A great climb, worth the effort!
This route is on the far [left] of Turnkorner [Buttress], and starts up a wide-looking chimney.
P1. This chimney, though stemmable and only 5.9, is is still very awkward (being partly a blind flare), and not easy to protect. Best have your partner lead this.
P2. Pitch two is the business. Start up an innocent crack, which steepens up and then blanks out. Above, out of reach, the crack opens up and gets easy again, but meanwhile. . . . Not sure how much I should say about the crux. Ahem, well, the solution is not to keep throwing yourself at the blind section of crack right in front of you. I will say that. And the moves, once you commit, are strenuous and hard to reverse. Anyway, you reach welcome jugs after a few powerful moves (or next weekend for me), and steep 5.9 climbing gains easier (though exposed) ground, and a nice ledge.
P3. After this, the climb changes character and reverts to more regular Lumpy style. One more 5.9 pitch follows a crack system up. Wander to the saddle from here. Come to think of it, we may have rapped from the nice ledge back to the start of pitch two, then to the ground. Funny how I still remember the crux moves, but not the rest of the climb.
This route is on the far [left] of Turnkorner [Buttress], and starts up a wide-looking chimney.
P1. This chimney, though stemmable and only 5.9, is is still very awkward (being partly a blind flare), and not easy to protect. Best have your partner lead this.
P2. Pitch two is the business. Start up an innocent crack, which steepens up and then blanks out. Above, out of reach, the crack opens up and gets easy again, but meanwhile. . . . Not sure how much I should say about the crux. Ahem, well, the solution is not to keep throwing yourself at the blind section of crack right in front of you. I will say that. And the moves, once you commit, are strenuous and hard to reverse. Anyway, you reach welcome jugs after a few powerful moves (or next weekend for me), and steep 5.9 climbing gains easier (though exposed) ground, and a nice ledge.
P3. After this, the climb changes character and reverts to more regular Lumpy style. One more 5.9 pitch follows a crack system up. Wander to the saddle from here. Come to think of it, we may have rapped from the nice ledge back to the start of pitch two, then to the ground. Funny how I still remember the crux moves, but not the rest of the climb.
Photos
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