Elevation: 9,103 ft
GPS: 40.413, -105.552 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 119,552 total · 527/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 15, 2001 with improvements by Carl Schaefer and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

Nearly 1000 feet high, the best cliff (along with the Book) at Lumpy Ridge, but because of the long approach it sees relatively little traffic. Classics of all grades and types of climbing, including Kor's Flake (5.7), Mainliner (5.9), Turnkorner (5.10a), and Whiteman (5.11). To descend from all but the west-most routes, scramble along the top to a steep fourth-class gully that leads NE. The gully begins at the saddle between the Turnkorner Buttress (the steep, rounded section of cliff most visible on the approach) and the Guillotine Wall, an immense section of cliff which is not visible for most of the approach, but which can be seen clearly divided from the Turnkorner Buttress by a prominent chimney system when one stands in front of the rock. Downclimb the gully very carefully, or make several rappels from trees. Then follow the steep, brushy hillside (really a larger gully) around to the base of the rock.

Getting There

Sundance is the western most formation on the ridge; hike west from the parking lot ~0.6 miles to the Black Canyon trail, past the Book turnoff, through the cow fence, into the woods, and then look for a "Sundance" sign on the right side of the trail. If you miss it, you'll be faced with a nauseating bushwhack straight uphill instead of an invigorating hike up a constructed trail (750' elevation gain to the base). Expect 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

Update: in 2019, Sundance is closed for raptor nesting. Click here for the Feb. 25, 2019 new release: https://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/news/temporary-closures-in-lumpy-ridge-area-to-protect-nesting-raptors-in-rocky-mountain-national-park.htm

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sundance Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 315
Kor's Flake
Trad 6 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Grapevine
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 284
Mainliner
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Sidetrack
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Betwixt'em
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
 3
Firebird
Aid 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 90
Turnkorner
Trad 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Slim Pickens
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
The Nose
Trad 7 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Idiot Wind
Trad 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
The Guillotine
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Progression
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Bonzo
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Chain of Command
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Whiteman
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kor's Flake
 315
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Grapevine
 55
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Mainliner
 284
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Sidetrack
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Betwixt'em
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Firebird
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Aid 5 pitches
Turnkorner
 90
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Slim Pickens
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
The Nose
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Idiot Wind
 59
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
The Guillotine
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Progression
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Bonzo
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Chain of Command
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Whiteman
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
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