Type: Trad, Aid
FA: Laton Kor and company
Page Views: 2,821 total · 14/month
Shared By: paco on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting but is NOW OPEN. Click for details. Details

Description

Precipitation is located on the face between Turnkorner and The Nose and starts 20 ft or so left of the HUGE flake leaning against the wall. From there it continues upward to the great roof which holds the exposed zig zag crux pitch.

Yes, some may not agree with the three stars I gave this route, but I really dug it. The free climbing is full-on sandbag yet of high quality. Plus ,the aid crux through the roof is super exposed and one of the best positions on Lumpy!

Contrary to what the guidebooks say, here is how I found the pitches to be rated. P1= 5.9 P2= C1 or solid 5.10?? P3= C1 or 5.9/5.10???(but don't quote me on that!) P4= C2/+? and P5 and up- follow The Nose route to the top or continue straight up the last A3 pitch of Firebird.

P.S. - send your tallest partner to make the big Laton Kor reach in the middle of the C2 roof!

Protection

Thanks to some fixed pins and clean aid gadgets, this route can and should continue to go hammerless. Bring a standard clean aid rack up to a #4 Camalot, one cliff hanger hook, and don't forget a big (or long?) cam hook for the inverted placement at the crux near end of roof. However, those new 2cams by Splitter Gear may do the trick there also? Note: belay at top of pitch 2 is not the best, but it's doable, but the belay on the top of pitch 4 (at end of roof) is bunk! This belay has one pin sticking halfway out and two antique Kor bolts which need replacement, yikes! I was able to back this anchor up a bit, but new bolts are needed.

Photos

- No Photos -
paco
  5.9 C2
paco  
  5.9 C2
Freeclimbed the 1st three pitches to the roof the other day. Pitch 1 is 5.9. P2 is 5.10+ with some thin pro. P3 is 5.10-. We rapped from here with two 60m ropes to the webbing at the top of P1. I'd give the 1st 3 pitches a star or two. Sep 20, 2003
gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
How would the other pitches be to free? Aug 28, 2013
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Really hard and really poorly protected. Sep 1, 2013