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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Lynn Hill/John Long (FFA)
Page Views: 3,507 total, 17/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

On the buttress between Guillotine and Mainliner are several flake/crack lines that are climbable. Whiteman takes the right-most of these. Look up; you're heading for the base of a beautiful, changing corners pitch.

P1 5.11c - Climb flakes and cracks, protecting with small wires and stoppers. Clip two bolts for the traverse to the belay in the bottom of the crack.

P2 5.11 - Climb the changing corners to thed top. Beautiful, thin stemming and jamming. Bachar backed off this pitch saying it needed pins to protect, leaving it to girl to do the FFA. It protects well with small cams.

Protection

Cams to thin hand size. Lots of small wires/RPs.

Photos

Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
Climbed for the first time yesterday. The first pitch has 2 bolts, one in the middle a little higher up from a piece in a small roof about halfway up the pitch.
The second is right before the belay. There are also two fixed wires on this pitch...as of now.
The second pitch is one of the best I have ever climbed at Lumpy Ridge. Stellar! Continue up past the shitty belay, hands, to the top of the pillar. May 16, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Yes.... May 4, 2010
Andrew McLean
Colorado
Andrew McLean   Colorado
Sorry for not posting beta rather a question. Is this the route that Craig Demartino mentioned he had an accident on in this article this article in Climbing magazine? May 4, 2010
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
That girl that you refer to is a five time World Champion. That girl was the first person to free The Nose. Went back a year later and freed every pitch herself in a day. As far as I know, it hasn't been repeated to this day (all pitches done free by one person in a day). That girl has been at the top of the climbing world for the better part of three decades. That girl still holds a bunch of power lifting records in her weight class. That girl only weighs about 100 pounds and can bench press 230. Can you bench two and a half times your weight? I met Lynn once in Smith Rocks. I was with a bunch of hardcore valley climbers embarrassing ourselves on Rude Boys. It's like 5.13c or something. Lynn roped up and flashed it. As John Long put it, if you went climbing with Lynn Hill, the only thing you would be good for is to hold her rope. :) Mar 13, 2008
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I think this is deserving of 4 stars. Although only 2 pitches, probably my favorite route on Sundance. Feb 27, 2005
david goldstein
  5.11c
david goldstein  
  5.11c
I'd give each pitch two Lumpy stars. Don't skip the 2nd pitch which is steeper, better protected and arguably more enjoyable than the first. There is a rap station at the end of P2, but it is not too inspiring -- old, crusty slings girth hitched around wires etc; we partially fortified it but a couple of leaver biners and another piece w/ decent webbing would really help. 165' from the 2nd anchor to the base. Sep 12, 2004
paco  
The two old bolts on the traverse have been replaced with new ones. Mar 25, 2003
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
 
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
 
As of last summer, the bolts on the traverse were still quarter-inchers, but I don't believe it makes it unsafe. You can get a bomber piece at the top of the flake that you are leaving on the right, which backs up the rusty bolts. The anchor at the top of that pitch HAS been updated though, and the dihedral above provides excellent climbing. I highly recommend this route. Sep 18, 2002