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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Randy Farris & Mike Caldwell - 1987
Page Views: 2,414 total · 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Aug 1, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting but is NOW OPEN. Click for details. Details

Description

Chain of Command is a nice face climb and a natural way to continue past Bonzo.

P1: Climb Bonzo. Apparently the traditional way to do Chain of Command is to break left around the arete about 30 feet below the top of Bonzo, but it seems more natural to climb the dihedral all the way to the first set of anchors.

P2: Climb up and slightly left up ever-steepening rock. Most of the climb is bolt protected face climbing on somewhat fragile flakes. Clip a long runner to the last bolt and traverse right and then up to an intermediate anchor consisting of two star drive bolts (crux #1). Continue up and right above this anchor for another 20 feet to a second anchor. This last section protects with some small gear (no bolts despite what various topos may show) and contains the true crux of the route - a one or two move section right off a good stance.

We rapped to the anchor on top of Bonzo with a 70m rope and 5-10 feet of rope to spare. A 60m would be tight if it reached at all. One more rap to the ground.

Protection

Ten draws or so and a few TCUs/Aliens or wires.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Cool route, a little enervating due to some questionable rock. The first 'pitch' with 6 bolts had a 5.10 crux move around the 3rd or 4th bolt. The step across did not feel like the crux to me- you can make the move quickly and then go up to jugs to the anchor. From there clip both bolts and head up. The 'second pitch' crux is right above the bolts and needs no gear for safety. Mentally you might want it, but not practically. After a move or two it was easy enough to just go to the anchor. The climb overall is a two-crux wonder that is fun and sustained at the 5.10- level.

Pretty good. A little spicy not due to big fall potential, but rather due to the "wonder which hold might give" potential.

Easy for 11a? Maybe just my style. I powered through the crux but it did not feel technically difficult. People with less reach or shoulders might find it about right at the grade.

The top anchor should be replaced. It is not very good and one of the button-heads is sticking out, but felt secure. The death triangle up there is taking it's toll. There's not good gear backup, so it's not like you can just leave gear if you get there and one is too bad to trust. Aug 3, 2003
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
Very fun. There are still some creaky holds, so watch out! I noticed in general the underclings are sketchy, while the crimps and sidepulls are solid. Sporty bolting. We couldn't figure out where the 3rd pitch was, so we bailed. Jun 13, 2011

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