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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Michael Covington, Billy Westbay and Doug Snively, 1975
Page Views: 13,710 total, 68/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 12, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is another fun Sundance route. It starts to the left of Mainliner, climbing a shallow, right-facing crack just left of a left-facing flake.

P1: Ascend the corner as it fades work left past incipent seams and runout face climbing (8) to a small ledge below another crack system.

P2: Follow the left-facing crack with interesting jams up to and over a small roof and belay on a ledge below and to the left of a wider crack (9).

P3: Follow the wide crack to another belay ledge (8).

P4: Follow an easy crack system just left of the crux pitch of Mainliner (6) or move right to join Mainliner.

P5: Follow cracks just left of Mainliner (we joined Mainliner). This is likely the best pitch of the climb.

P6: The topo indicates another pitch of 5.9 followed by a pitch of 5.6 choice of easy climbing up to the summit or traverse right to the Saddle Descent.

Eds. Below is an updated description with the complete route (not joining Mainliner).

Per Greg D: when the approach trail reaches the buttress, continue up and left for another 100 yards or so to where the trail tends to level out and just begins to head downhill. Locate an old, large, downed tree stump that has fallen to the right (east). 20 feet left of this tree stump is a left-arching, featured finger crack. Start here.

P1. Climb the left arching finger crack which is tricky but well-protected. When the crack ends, continue up and left on easier rock to the crack/gully system, 9-, 75 feet.

P2. Climb the crack/gully system with some vegetation and sometimes wet. Exit the gully/crack system to the right onto cleaner rock via a finger crack. Continue up to a generous belay ledge, 9, 80 feet.

P3. Climb the splitter 4” wide crack, 8, 100 feet.

P4. Climb up an left for another 90 feet to a good stance, 7, 90 feet.

P5. Climb the obvious crack up and slightly left heading towards what appears to be a steep finger crack but actually is a hand crack topped by a small roof. Place good gear before and after the roof, because gear will be harder to find after this point. Take the path of least resistance heading towards the large left facing corner capped by a roof. Belay in the left facing corner below the roof, 9, 8+ R, 100 feet. It may be possible to continue over the roof (9) and belay above.

P6. Climb over the roof (9) and continue up and slightly right to a nice, wide crack/chimney on easier terrain, 100 feet. Several other possibilities exist here.

P7. Climb the wide crack/chimney until you can exit right on a large ledge.

To combine pitches: 1 & 2, 3 & 4, 5 & over the roof, 6 & 7 to the walkoff ledge.

Descent:

Head right on 4th class terrain. You may need to scramble slightly down and east to a notch. Find a small tree with slings. Do three single rope rappels from trees with slings. Note: a 60 meter rope doesn’t reach the second tree, but some 5.0 or easier climbing will get you to it.

Protection

Standard rack.

Per Greg D: bring a standard rack with a few RPs, TCUs, and a 4” cam for pitch 3.
doligo  
This route is made for offset nuts. Make sure to bring a full set of HB brassies as well - I only had a couple. C3s would've been nice too. A #4 is not necessary, could probably get away without a #3 too. The top part of P5 is a steep jug haul well above your gear - really unusual kind of climbing for granite. Jun 3, 2015
manel casanova
gillette
  5.10a R
manel casanova   gillette
  5.10a R
Amazing route. Very interesting first pitch and incredibly beautiful 5th pitch. I climb the crack and the roof in a single pitch, and it felt powerful and totally aesthetic climbing. The guide says that is 5.9, but it feels to me more like a beautiful 5.10a. Sep 11, 2014
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
 
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
 
Sidetrack is an excellent route with cerebral climbing often times above delicate protection.

On pitch 4, we stepped right into the crux 5.9- stembox of Mainliner. For pitch 5, we stepped back left into the crux 5.9 finger crack/roof pitch of Sidetrack. With this minor variation, the route offers sustained 5.9 climbing for 4 of the 6 pitches - definitely recommended.

The crux 5th pitch on Sidetrack is pretty real. A techy finger crack leads into a stellar hand crack and then over a small roof where the pro gets sparse. The moves up to the base of the big roof are steep, and well above your last piece - pretty heady for the 5.9 climber, but it's all there. The roof itself is the icing on the cake - well-protected and straightforward. Aug 27, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Excellent route. Fun and interesting the whole way, and you get to do 3 easy "OWs". Fully agreed with the crack start that angles left then back right across the slab... there are some runouts, but there is way more gear than it looks like from the ground.

As for the 5th pitch, the wavy hand crack, getting through the roof is easy with great gear. Above the roof, the gear is thin and well below you pulling the slabby moves, so don't blow it.

This was a great route, but I think it would be pretty spicy for a 5.9 leader since there are quite a few spots where you are 15' above gear and a bit of the gear is fiddley and/or Aliens & small nuts. Bring your RPs. I used them a few times. Excellent line. Aug 5, 2013
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Climbed this on our first ever trip to Lumpy Ridge last week. Used a light/medium rack with a small group of nuts and cams up to a #4 (the latter used only twice - once on the P3 offwidth and once over the P6 roof).

Loved the route and definitely felt that we got our money's worth for the hiking effort out to this final western formation on the ridge. Would be definitely feasible to do two routes in a summer day on the Sundance formation assuming a ~9AM hour start and a decent pace. In relation to J-Crack on The Book (esp. its second pitch), our other venture on Lumpy, I found Sidetrack to be much less sustained and just a whole lot of fun.

We selected Sidetrack after debating between this and Mainliner, and I'm glad we chose the former! If Mainliner is half the fun of this climb, these routes would certainly make for an epic two-route-day affair.

The approach took us ~90 minutes from the parking lot at a semi-leisurely face and given the usual Lumpy final steep climber's trail to the wall after the main trail walking. I saw a reference in the comments to a cairn marking the junction from the hiker's trail to the climber's trail to the Sundance formation, but as of July 2013 there's an actual marked sign for Sundance off of the main trail, so no need to look for cairns at the junction.

With a 60m rope, we:
- Linked P1-P2 easily
- Did P3 in a single pitch
- Did P4 in a single pitch
- Linked P5-P6 easily
- Did P7/finish in a single pitch.

For P1, I saw another party meander a bit, but I aimed essentially straight for the obvious mini-roof from the ground, traversing a bit rightward for pro after setting gear in the initial left-leading flake. This line worked great and climbed much better than it looked, culminating with a really fun and well-protected move up-and-left on P2 over the mini-roof to the belay stance.

For P3, we had just come from Vedauwoo a few days previous, so the bits of offwidth here on the first half of the pitch felt rather mellow in comparison. I took a left-side-in approach to the wider parts and had few problems. Then if you have fairly big hands, the second half of the pitch will take locker hand jams and is a blast (my girlfriend, with much smaller hands, had no problems there either). Bring at least one #4 for the first 1/3 of the pitch (and perhaps 2 #4s and one #6 if you really want to button up the pitch/are unfamiliar with offwidth movements) - otherwise a tipped-out #2 *deep* in the wide portion of the crack might work, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you are confident on 5.8 offwidth.

I recommend doing the easier P4 in one pitch or linking P3-P4 but stopping there. There are great belay ledges after P3 and P4, and belaying at the end of P4 will set you up beautifully to link the gorgeous P5 (bomber hand jams and delicate moves to jugs) with the fun P6 (which includes an interesting, well-protectable with a #4, right-leading roof pull).

After the roof on P6, I romped up the easier 5.6 terrain to an arbitrary belay (there are many options), and then found a better-than-it-looks right-trending finish existing a chimney-ish area to what seemed like a good entry to the descent "saddle". As it turned out, this was a good idea and put us in prime position to directly reach the descent path. I would recommend this highly as opposed to continuing up to the true summit, since the climbing terrain above looked forgettable and this version saves a good bit of tedious descent.

From our endpoint on the climb, we hiked up-and-right and then erroneously headed down-and-right to the area we thought was the descent path. After bailing on that due to steepness and climbing back up to our departure point, we found the easement in the "saddle" on the formation and downclimbed down-and-left through large trees and spotted the first of 2-3 tree rappels. We ignored these raps and downclimbed the low 5th class short moves for ~10 minutes until joining the more obvious and cairned down-and-right trending descent path back to the base.

In retrospect, if we knew the correct descent path from the get-go off of the P7 exit we took, I would have set up some cairns linking that route exit point with the aforementioned easement in the saddle. Perhaps another party can do this to add safety to the descent.

Anecdotally, it seems like a great way to climb Lumpy in general would be to get the backcountry permit and bivy somewhere 2/3 up the hiker's trail for 4-5 days. This would avoid the same daily hike we did from the parking lot and assuming good weather, looks to be a *very* mellow backcountry excursion.

Feel free to email me for any other beta if you read this soon! Jul 18, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Classic Lumpy weirdness! Though the cracks are a bit more receptive to gear placements than say... George's Tree or J-Crack. The first pitch variation is heads up, but the gear is adequate and good - so when things look bleak, keep going. I thought most of the climbing clocked in around 5.8+ to 5.9+ most of the time. But the route is great! Jun 9, 2013
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
All pitches are sustained and awesome. We linked 1-2 and 3-4 with a 60m. All the gear is there. Aug 15, 2012
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Someone should modify the description of this route to remove any suggestion to connect into Mainliner. Pitch 5 of SideTrack is the crux, the best pitch, and the main reason to do the route in the first place. Avoiding it by connecting with Mainliner seems like the strangest idea....
BTW, I think that one of the best 5.9 lines you can do on Sundance is to link the FIRST 3 pitches of Mainliner, followed by p5 of Sidetrack! Jun 11, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.9
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.9
Did the clean straight up small crack section on P5 below the slot, got in 3 small nuts, even so the last move was pretty scary, hardest move of whole route. Combining 1,2,3 w/70m just makes it to a ledge. Jul 20, 2009
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
 
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
 
Pitches 1 and 2 link very easily with a 60m rope - a good way to go. As someone noted, the first pitch is spicy. I took the thin, left-arching crack that others mention, then cut back right to the first belay stance along a prominent edge. The runouts aren't crazy, but many of the moves are on rounded edges/smears and you can't place gear everywhere you'd like it. It gets more positive as you get higher. While pitch 5 is a pretty amazing section of climbing, with an unflared crack(!), all in all, my vote goes to Mainliner as the better route. May 29, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
P5 is awesome! Go straight up for the hot stuff. Nov 2, 2008
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
Between the small roof at the end of the hand crack on P5, and the final 5.9 roof, you don't need to go left. You can go straight up through the seams and broken crack systems at 5.8+R (not as hard as the short traverse on the face below the handcrack P5). The last piece of gear I was able to get was 5 or 6 ft over the lip of the small roof. I gunned for the top of the face and a solid #0.4 Camalot. This section is fun but committing. If you get through the 5.8 runout at the bottom without problems, this isn't all that much harder.

Fun route! Definitely more sustained than Mainliner... and the last roof is really fun with GREAT PRO! Don't bail onto Mainliner!! Apr 21, 2008
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
I think I did the correct start but the only gear I saw was about 15ft up. I was planning on linking the first 3 pitches so I opted to skip it. Wouldn't have done much good anyways, since I got nothin' 'til about 60ft where I got 2 small wires. If you don't like really run out face climbing, I would definitely take the crack to the left. Jun 12, 2006
SW Marlatt
Arvada, CO
  5.9
SW Marlatt   Arvada, CO
  5.9
Absolute agree on the 5th pitch - one of the nicest cracks you can imagine. We belayed at the top of the crack - short traverse left to a little, airy, very exposed perch, and worked up through the roof as a 6th pitch. The anchors here were a bit thin but ok (several small wires), but great position!

Wonderful route! You can bear off above the roof, or continue up and slightly right to top out (recommended). Mar 16, 2006
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
I was [wondering] if anyone knows the name of the beautiful left facing, over hanging dihedral that can be done as a variation to the last pitch on climbers right. It was amazing climbing but it felt like it was rarely done. Thanks. - Will Butler Sep 6, 2005
Luke Clarke
Golden
  5.9
Luke Clarke   Golden
  5.9
Best 9 on Sundance. Best 9 at Lumpy. Gillett's guide describes the same (excellent) start as Scott Kimball above. It's good small pro (RPs, a blue TCU) but at some easy points you're standing above your last placement and not seeing your next placement but the good holds lead to good gear. Jul 18, 2005
Cale Csizmadi
Colorado Springs
  5.9
Cale Csizmadi   Colorado Springs
  5.9
We climbed the route this past weekend following the suggestion by Charles to combine the 1st four pitches into two pitches. This is definitely the way to climb this beauty. The final 5.9 pitch is one awesome lead!! I also thought this climb was better and more sustained than Mainliner-- IMHO :o) Jul 14, 2005
kyle lefkoff
  5.9
kyle lefkoff  
  5.9
Climbed the first three pitches with Mike Alkaitis yesterday, then the next three pitches of Mainliner. I agree with Kimball's suggestion on the first pitch - start to the left. I would give this pitch an s rating. The combination with Mainliner provides six consistent pitches at the 5.8+/5.9 standard with splitter rock and excellent stances. Sep 2, 2004
Errett Allen  
 
Better than Mainliner -- just as high quality but more sustained. Must do on Sundance. Pitch 5 is gorgeous and wild. Jul 13, 2004
John Keller
  5.9
John Keller  
  5.9
Just did this route over the weekend and I'm amazed that it isn't as popular as Mainliner. The full route is excellent. Kimball's comment about the start is the way to go. Rossiter has almost no description of this route but the topo is good. We used that and descriptions from two other books and it all worked out very well. Every pitch has good climbing on it. I thought pitch 4 was a bit harder than 6. The crack in pitch 5 is absolutely stellar. Just at the end of the crack there is a mini roof. After the roof the climb goes way left to get gear and holds then comes back right to enter the A roof from the left. It goes well but you'll need to extend the pieces at the end of the crack so avoid too much drag. The stemming in the roof was amazing and looks really hard but it was all there. As good as Mainliner IMHO. Jul 12, 2004
Pitch #1 as described is a poor choice, better to climb the thin left arching crack a few steps west ,but still east of GRAPEVINE.When the crack ends faceclimb right on black incut holds to the belay.This is beautiful 5.8 and 9 climbing, protectable the whole way with small wires and tcu's.For what its worth D.Snivley and I did a variation to Pitch#2.Move out left and mantle up some large flakes then work up for pro in the regular line. Move out left and just before reaching GRAPEVINE jam an excellent 5.9+/10-, left facing red, dihedral that soon bends back to the normal route. Jun 11, 2004
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Have to agree with Scott--the final 5.9 pitch is one of the best on Lumpy, and the real meat of the route--lots of awesome, steep and varied climbing on this pitch. The climbing is quite reasonable; the whole pitch seems easier than the 5.9 section on pitch two. Don't bail into Mainliner.

We combined pitches 1&2, as well as 3&4, which worked very well (minimal drag, good belays) with a 60 meter rope and a standard rack--I highly recommend doing it this way. (we had nothing larger than a #3 Camalot, which worked fine, though 3.5 and 4 would get used on the standard pitch 3). This route is, IMO, as good as Mainliner, and only a little harder--the first pitch is pretty runout at 5.8, though. Jun 20, 2003
Jesse missed Sidetrack's primo pitch by joining Mainliner.Pitch #5 goes up a thin crack in blackish rock(5.9) to the bottom of an inverted "V" roof. Step into this from the left(5.8)then over the roof crack. IMHO Sundance's best 5.9. Sep 17, 2002
Really nice route another Sundance gem. The crack on the second pitch is wide and sustained. The last pitch of 5.9 is awesome, bring a minimum of a 3.5 Camalot and be ready to walk the dog........ Jun 25, 2001