Type: Trad, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: [Chip Salaun & Aaron Walters, 1979]
Page Views: 3,463 total · 16/month
Shared By: Errett Allen on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

Hike way up beyond Eumenides dihedral until nearly at the end of Sundance.

P1. Start directly under the far left end of a large, long roof that is about 100 feet off the ground. Climb up and slightly right, back left to a bush and up right again to a belay ledge directly underneath the left end of the large roof -- 5.5.

P2. Go straight left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral as it becomes larger up perfect 5.5 rock to a huge ledge.

P3. Climb up into a short, right-facing dihedral that peters out below an obvious flake/overhang (only about 60 ft above the ledge) that shoots far across the face to left. Don't go to the top of the dihedral but traverse left on an easy ledge that leads to a shallow flared crack that approaches the flake/overhang. The flake/overhang offers a good crack for protection but don't follow it directly. Instead piece together small ledges and sections of friction below that allow you to approach the crack occasionally to plug in pro. Belay on a good ledge in an area of dark rock. Long pitch, a bit runout, 5.6.

P4. Continue traversing up and left to a large ledge with a big obvious pine tree. 5.5. From here, you can follow a huge crack/dihedral system directly above the ledge -- 5.easy -- this is a route called Last Gasp, however a MUCH BETTER way is as follows.

P5. Climb a short, left-facing dihedral, traverse up and right on runout face to a small ledge (pro here) then traverse straight right to a shallow, left-facing dihedral. (Fixed pin hidden from below). Follow the dihedral for 30 easy feet to a sloping ledge and go right 10 feet to a good belay nook. Great 5.7.

P6. Climb back left to the dihedral which is now larger and has changed directions to right facing. Follow the obvious crack for 50-60 feet to an obvious roof. Turn the roof with huge jugs on the left wall -- spectacular 5.7, and continue on easy ground to the summit.

To descend, climb up and over the summit of a huge rock to the west and down a long, tree-filled, loose gully visible from most of the route. When the gully branches at a small pinnacle, be sure and go to the right (skier's right).

Protection

Standard rack from small stoppers to #3.5 Camalot.

Photos