Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Erickson & Luke Studer|
|Page Views:||1,241 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Erik Corkran on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
(1) Climb the first pitch of Kor's Flake (I always climb through the "hole" but not for any particular reason).
(2) Start up the second pitch of Kor's Flake but break right to a black and slightly bulging dihedral. I think that the normal route continues up Kor's Flake and avoids this. Dihedral felt 5.9, though I had not done too many 5.9 trad leads at the time, so could be 5.8+. It seems like we belayed after the black dihedral.
(3) The dihedral continues but is very dirty, head up and left instead (heading for a flake at the left edge of a big roof). The flake is big and hollow/scary, but leads to the best part of the climb. Do a "squeeze chimney traverse" to the right under/inside the big roof. I managed to fit through after much wiggling. My partner was convinced he couldn't fit but he finally did. If you are over about 190 lbs you probably will not fit. Continue to the dihedral at the right edge of the roof (I placed a large cam on a big runner before pulling onto the wall) and pull over to the right on (mostly) good holds, with good gear (large stoppers). The route continues to the saddle though I don't remember exact details. Difficulty decreased after the pull around the roof mentioned above.
I was going to give the route a star for the roof traverse and pull over the dihedral. I really enjoyed this pitch, but I figured that many people wouldn't so I left the star off.