Type: Trad, 660 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Nate A., S.Kimball, 2005
Page Views: 2,233 total · 13/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Jun 29, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

Undoubtedly parts of this 220 meter route has been climbed before, people wandering off Eumenides, Adrenaline etc., but it is totally independent and has escaped any description in all guidebooks beginning in 1970 with Walter Fricke. Ever so humbly, this is a route linked together after a look in 2004. Without putting my head in a noose, I say this is among Sundance's finest rockclimbs. Begin 30m left of Eumenides.

P1. Start up a clean corner to a roof with a nice V slot, handcrack. Aim towards a left-angling, left-facing dihedral. Near its top half, follow face and flakes out to the left past a girth hitched solid chickenhead. Continue with some 5.7 R face climbing to a large (Eumenides) ledge, 55 meters, 5.9.

P2. Angle left up easy open dihedral. Pass an unique natural arch, then a flared crack, to a small pillar draped with rapslings. Boldly go up 5.9+ R face, then hit larger holds climbing just left of a large clump of jamesia shrubs. The crux fingercrack is straight above, 5.11-. Save some go for the ending. Where the crack Ys, diagonal right (5.10 an a bit runout). Belay inside a classic, two person, sentry box, 55 meters.

P3. Climb right trending, twin cracks past 2 fixed pieces (not ours) 5.9. Nail an insecure 5.11- bulge. Fight past a bush (The President!) and into a major, left-facing, dihedral system. Belay on a good ledge after approximately 30 meters.

P4. Do 55 meters up this excellent, clean dihedral 5.9 and finish over a roof. 5. 20 meters of low 5th class to top. Best off, unrope and head toward summit begin curving NE-ward, but always well above exposed slabs, into the top of East Descent Gully.

Protection

Standard: RPs to #3 Camalot, many runners.

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