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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 951 total, 5/month
Shared By: Doug Dakins on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is located about 100 feet beyond Eumenides. Look for the next continuous dihedral. The start is below a roof/dihedral. Scramble an easy 4th class dihedral crack until about 40 feet below roof/dihedral.

P1. 5.9. Head slightly left up a slab to the roof. Place pro in roof and pull over at a crack. Follow corner until it turns into a nice dihedral. At the top, undercling out small bulge to the left and make a few moves to easier ground. Good pro. Rossiter's guidebook says 6 inch crack, but the wide section is very short. ~180'.

P2. 5.7. Climb up and back right into the dihedral for a long, wide, lieback pitch. Toward the end of the pitch I climbed out of the dihedral at an old rap anchor to the right moved up and stepped back in to the dihedral to avoid a wide section. Belay at a small alcove with good, hand-sized cracks. Kinda of dirty and wide. There was some vegetation in the dihedral that was dusty and annoying. May want an additional big piece, ~170'.

P3. 5.9, the business. Climb a very thin dihedral with a black groove in it. Place pro early as there is not much for the next 10 feet. There is a trick to getting started and some hidden pro. The dihedral opens to good, finger liebacks with some tricky but solid pro. At the top of the dihedral, move left across a slab. Go to the end of the slab and belay below another, left-facing dihedral. Maybe 30-40 feet to the left of the thin dihedral. I found the crux to be about ten feet up at a small bulge with a very poor Alien at my waist. A couple of moves and you can get some bomber pro and good finger locks, ~110'.

P4. 5.8. Climb a left-facing dihedral and move right to a slightly overhanging, short, hand crack. Crank through the overhang and follow another shallow dihedral. Belay on an awesome chair-like ledge, ~100'.

P5. 5.8. Pick a finish. Eds. The original finish angles right and pash a bush in a crack. We finished with Eumenides, which basically climbed a neat finger crack to the left and pulled over a small roof 40 feet above the belay. From there, I went left and up picking the easiest way as I was beat! ~180'.

P6. 5.6. Up to the top, ~100'.

Notes: A good route with a spicy crux - a fine Sundance adventure. This is my first year leading 9s and the crux mentally pushed me mostly because the pro was kinda nasty, although it was all good climbing. P2 [was the only pitch I did not care for]. I am curious to see what other folks think.

Protection

Standard rack. Small nuts/Aliens to #3 Camalot. May want an additional larger cam (old style #4 Camalot).
Tried to do this route last week (May 14) --- did the first pitch but the second was soaked, so we launched out on the face to the left and just wandered up shallow corners, cracks and face climbing, just trying to climb whatever looked good, generally staying 30-40 feet left of and parallel to Engish Opening. After studying the topo and photo later, I concluded we did portions of Adrenaline and then finished up Dance, Dance, Dance. Except for a 20 foot section of dirty, bushy crack, all the rock and climbing was [excellent]. Don't let the water on pitch 2 ruin your day. May 23, 2005
Funky, [weird], not crowded. I guess it was worth the time. Aug 19, 2004