Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,492 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Doug Dakins on Jul 11, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
P1. 5.9. Head slightly left up a slab to the roof. Place pro in roof and pull over at a crack. Follow corner until it turns into a nice dihedral. At the top, undercling out small bulge to the left and make a few moves to easier ground. Good pro. Rossiter's guidebook says 6 inch crack, but the wide section is very short. ~180'.
P2. 5.7. Climb up and back right into the dihedral for a long, wide, lieback pitch. Toward the end of the pitch I climbed out of the dihedral at an old rap anchor to the right moved up and stepped back in to the dihedral to avoid a wide section. Belay at a small alcove with good, hand-sized cracks. Kinda of dirty and wide. There was some vegetation in the dihedral that was dusty and annoying. May want an additional big piece, ~170'.
P3. 5.9, the business. Climb a very thin dihedral with a black groove in it. Place pro early as there is not much for the next 10 feet. There is a trick to getting started and some hidden pro. The dihedral opens to good, finger liebacks with some tricky but solid pro. At the top of the dihedral, move left across a slab. Go to the end of the slab and belay below another, left-facing dihedral. Maybe 30-40 feet to the left of the thin dihedral. I found the crux to be about ten feet up at a small bulge with a very poor Alien at my waist. A couple of moves and you can get some bomber pro and good finger locks, ~110'.
P4. 5.8. Climb a left-facing dihedral and move right to a slightly overhanging, short, hand crack. Crank through the overhang and follow another shallow dihedral. Belay on an awesome chair-like ledge, ~100'.
P5. 5.8. Pick a finish. Eds. The original finish angles right and pash a bush in a crack. We finished with Eumenides, which basically climbed a neat finger crack to the left and pulled over a small roof 40 feet above the belay. From there, I went left and up picking the easiest way as I was beat! ~180'.
P6. 5.6. Up to the top, ~100'.
Notes: A good route with a spicy crux - a fine Sundance adventure. This is my first year leading 9s and the crux mentally pushed me mostly because the pro was kinda nasty, although it was all good climbing. P2 [was the only pitch I did not care for]. I am curious to see what other folks think.