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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Westbay ,Snively , 1982.
Page Views: 4,487 total, 23/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

A trilogy, if you will, of 5.9 Sundance Buttress Classics: Mainliner, Sidetrack and between them, Betwix'em. There is a third pitch to this route, but we optioned for Mainliner's stemming crux pitch.

#1. Start a few feet left of Mainliner up a 4 inch 5.7 crack. From the pillar top, follow knobs up a corner with a grass hummock to a left-leaning (5.6R) ramp and belay atop this feature in a blocky crack. This point may be reached a bit more directly by nice 5.8/9 handjamming via a traverse left through a Thimbleberry patch.

#2 This pitch is especially sweet. Follow vertical 5.9 cracks, first staying left then finally arching right over black knobs and flakes (excellent protection) to a good belay on or near Mainliner.

Protection

Standard Lumpy, many stoppers to #4 Friend.

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
For P1 we stayed to the left of the pillar, aim for then go up a short, clean, left-facing corner, continue up angling right until underneath ledge and big bush. At ledge, traverse left until under the nice crack you see from the ground. Top of corner and big bush is seen in the routes photo.

About 100 higher the crack splits, we went left until it ended, then began a harrowing traverse 20' left to middle Sidetrack's wide crack pitch. Couple of RP placements.

If you can do the traverse lower there may be better pro? We did this traverse because there did not look like much pro above cracks end.

Traversing earlier is probably the better bet since there will be more to the wide crack pitch which is fun. This is the only place you will place a #4 camo IF you bring it.

We wished we would have brought the 70m. Jul 20, 2009
Did this route again for the second time recently. A route-finding comment: On the second pitch about 20-30 feet above the first belay, the crack splits. The right-hand crack looks clean and beautiful and you may be tempted to go that way, but DON'T. The left-hand crack which mostly goes straight up, may look steep and intimidating and one section looks hard to protect. In fact, the climbing is superb and you can get many rests and excellent pro the whole way. This pitch is incredibly good and you will be missing out to pass it by. May 23, 2005
Errett Allen
  5.9
Errett Allen  
  5.9
A great and very seldom traveled alternative to Mainliner or Sidetrack. It's a bit dirtier than those routes due to lack of traffic, but the climbing is steep, interesting and on very high quality rock with good pro. See attached photos for route finding beta on the 5.9 second pitch. The 5.6 third pitch is easy but high quality and puts you right at the base of Sidetracks upper crux pitch, which is a great way to finish up this route. Sep 7, 2004