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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kimball, Harrison, 1980.
Page Views: 671 total, 4/month
Shared By: S. Kimball on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is an interesting route up the left arete of the Dalke/Covington flake. Avoid the initial, testy 5.10 via the uphill gully. This makes it a pleasant 5.9 route.

P1. Begin 50' right of The Nose, past a smooth slab (Indian Burn), at a pencil thin crack just left of a gully. 1. Do the thin crack (poor pro). Angle left and up a nice, parallel-sided hand/finger crack. Face climb right (5.9) then go back left to a small ledge, 150'.

P2. Go up blocky 5.6/7 cracks to next ledge. Make easy but exposed steps around the arete leftward and join Dalke/Covington route for the next 70'. The original Jet Stream went quickly back right to the arete. That is blocky and dirty and ends at the same finish as this 3rd pitch.

P3. To the right is a red wall. Take a steep, clean and juggy finger/hand crack line that shots to the arete, excellent 5.8/9. Pass where Covert Action connects(5.7)and finish atop the Dalke/Covington flake, 100'.

P4. Continue with Dalke/Covington route or 3rd class down grassy ramp to treeslung anchors.

Rap carefully 120' to the walk off gully.

Protection

Standard plus micro nuts.

Photos

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Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10 R
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10 R
Positioning on the arete is great. We picked a windy day to climb this great route today.
Used a pocket on right for pro (gold Camalot) at beginning. The first pitch was very long 55m?, and the traverse left at its second crux was very exciting. Apr 2, 2011