Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Disney & Gary Moore, 1962
Page Views: 3,684 total · 16/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details


A highly varied route with some unique climbing which I enjoyed more than the highly acclaimed Mainliner just to the left. Contains by far the wildest 5.7 pitch I have ever climbed. The route is easily identified on the approach by a rectangular inset (the left of two similar ones) high on the wall, which forms a huge roof containing the massive hanging "blades" of the guillotine. The route starts below them, at a thin finger crack which opens into a more prominent system. Hike up past the large overhang of Turnkorner Buttress and past the long chimney system containing the first of the two rectangular insets.

P1-Climb the finger crack (crux), and continue over a bulge with a fist crack. Belay at a stance (120 ft.).

P2-Continue up the obvious system for 100 ft. to an alcove known as the Bay Window (5.7).

P3-Climb a fist crack in a corner to the right, then head up a thin crack to an adequate ledge at the base of the guillotine. The interesting looking cracks and chimneys to the left are said to lead to an expanse of low-quality rock. (5.9+, 80 ft.)

P4-Climb the dirty corner formed by the right side of the inset, then tunnel behind the very blades of the guillotine. I had to remove my helmet to fit through. Belay after emerging from the maze-"5.7"

P5-Continue to the top on 200 feet of easy climbing.

The descent is a short way east.


Standard rack; bring a fist-sized piece or two.