Type: Trad, 1050 ft (318 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sokol, Erb, Jacoba, 1970 FFA: Ferguson, Revery, 1973
Page Views: 7,393 total · 55/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

The Nose, like its sister route, Idiot Wind, ascends the southeast edge of Sundance Buttress via fun cracks and exciting face climbing. The two climbs run parallel for the their first two pitches, sharing first and second belays and about 40 feet of climbing on the third pitch, but separate here and follow distinct lines to the top of the buttress.

P1: The immense Dalke-Covington Flake rises out of the wall 40 feet off the ground above the southeast corner of Sundance; climb up low angle rock as if approaching the bottom of this flake, but work left through/around some bushes (optional belay at this ledge) to the right side of a large pillar, jamming and liebacking a crack (initially wide, 5.9) in the corner. Belay at the top of the pillar on a ledge, or stretch the rope up 20 more feet to a nice stance at a right-facing corner. A long pitch - up to 200', 5.9.

P2: Climb up the crack in the corner right off the belay, passing through an A-shaped roof. Trend a little left and climb a crack to a small belay stance with bolts. 75', 5.8.

P3: Get off the belay and climb up thin cracks to a roof. Traverse left beneath the roof to a small corner and make a heady step out left over the huge ceiling and lots of air. Face climb up from here (5.9+) to an exposed stance at a horn (optional belay). Follow a thin crack rising from the stance to a bulge with a thin slash headed up and left; face climb along the slash through the bulge (5.10b, possibly protect with RPs) to a reasonable stance. Plug gear in at your feet and head up and right on runout 5.8 face climbing 25+ feet toward a groove that passes the right side of a roof band. Belay at a bolt and fixed pin, back up these pieces with small nuts and cams if desired. 150', 5.10b.

P4: Follow the groove as it passes the roof, and continue along the steep, well-featured crack until a good belay stance can be had. ~200', 5.8.

P5: Continue up the easy face, protecting in seams and flakes, to the large shoulder beneath the summit of the buttress. ~120', 5.7.

From here, one can rappel down the northeast face of Sundance into the standard descent gully (five rappels off natural anchors with a 50 or 60m rope, 4 rappels with a 70m - three with doubles) or...

P6-7. Continue up 300' of easier climbing to the top of the formation and follow the standard Saddle Descent.

Eds. note, at one point both The Nose & Idiot Wind were combined onto 1 page. To help with organization & clarity, we have split these into 2 separate pages. Thus, some comments, photos, ratings, stars do not follow the page separations. Thanks for your understanding.

Location

Approach as normal for Sundance Buttress, heading downhill once the trail reaches the base of the formation. Walk through the cave formed by a huge flake leaning against the main wall, reaching the southeast corner of the rock, where the Dalke-Covington flake rises high above. P1 climbs low-angle rock as if one were approaching the base of the flake.

Protection

A rather full rack is recommended for this climb. The crux pitch and subsequent belay take micro nuts nicely, and the crack on the right side of the P1 pillar accepts bigger cams. You can protect the lower wide section with a well-earned marginal nut and a #3 Camalot that can be walked up several moves, but most leaders will want a #3 (maybe two) and a #4 Camalot; a standard span of bigger Friends (#3, #3.5, #4) with an extra #3.5 or #4 would also do the job.

Photos