Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kor and Dalke, 1965
Page Views: 8,744 total · 35/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Jun 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: 2021 Seasonal Raptor Closures - LIFTED For the 2021 season Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

This excellent route begins just to the right of the landmark Eumenides dihedral on Sundance Buttress. From where the trail reaches the rock in the vicinity of Turnkorner, head left past Kor's Flake, and Mainliner. Begin just left of Sidetrack at an obvious finger crack leading up and right.

P1. Climb the tricky crux finger crack up and right to a left-facing corner system. Head left to a fixed sling anchor at the top. (~140 feet).

P2. Step back right and follow the fist crack (5.7) up to a chimney system. Continue up until an amazing slot appears. Climb this to the top - excellent hand sized protection in the left crack or finger sized pro in the right crack at the back of the chimney. This goes at 5.6 and is a great intro to chimney climbing. Stellar pitch. You can continue up and left about 25 feet for a higher belay to avoid an extra pitch (~160 feet).

P3. Follow the corner up and left. Either climb runout 5.9 straight up the face, or step down and left into an easy crack system, then step back right for one more steep crack section (5.7) to a belay ledge. (~160 feet from the higher P2 belay).

P4. Follow the left-facing corner system. Where is steepens, it is possible to climb the face/cracks on the left at 8+, but it is also apparently possible to continue jamming right up the corner at strenuous 5.8 (we went left).

P5 and P6. Two more wandering and easier pitches to the summit. You can exit after P5 going right to the Saddle Descent.

Protection

Nuts and cams to #3 Camalot. An extra each #2 and #3 Camalot will probably get used.

Photos