Avg: 3 from 58 votes
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Kor and Dalke, 1965|
|Page Views:||8,744 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Sofranko on Jun 8, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
P1. Climb the tricky crux finger crack up and right to a left-facing corner system. Head left to a fixed sling anchor at the top. (~140 feet).
P2. Step back right and follow the fist crack (5.7) up to a chimney system. Continue up until an amazing slot appears. Climb this to the top - excellent hand sized protection in the left crack or finger sized pro in the right crack at the back of the chimney. This goes at 5.6 and is a great intro to chimney climbing. Stellar pitch. You can continue up and left about 25 feet for a higher belay to avoid an extra pitch (~160 feet).
P3. Follow the corner up and left. Either climb runout 5.9 straight up the face, or step down and left into an easy crack system, then step back right for one more steep crack section (5.7) to a belay ledge. (~160 feet from the higher P2 belay).
P4. Follow the left-facing corner system. Where is steepens, it is possible to climb the face/cracks on the left at 8+, but it is also apparently possible to continue jamming right up the corner at strenuous 5.8 (we went left).
P5 and P6. Two more wandering and easier pitches to the summit. You can exit after P5 going right to the Saddle Descent.