Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: George Hurley and Walter Fricke, 1970
Page Views: 4,360 total · 18/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

A good, long moderate route that gets better after a grungy start. Easily identified as beginning just past a giant dihedral, that runs up the entire height of the cliff, toward the west end of Sundance Buttress.

P1- Scramble up 3rd class until your comfort level warrants a belay, Climb into the huge dihedral, and follow it past a dirty wide section, then traverse left across a slab to a belay (5.8, 160 [to 210] ft.).

P2. Climb up a ways and then head right, linking discontinuous features to belay back towards the main dihedral (5.7, 120 ft.)

P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.).

P4. Climb the right crack, then go back left up a ramp system to a belay (5.6, 120 ft.).

P5. Climb a large, left-facing corner and turn a roof on either side with 5.8 moves. Continue to a ledge (150 ft.)

P6. A short 40 feet finds the top. Carefully scramble east for a good ways to find the descent route.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Friend.

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