Avg: 2.6 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||George Hurley and Walter Fricke, 1970|
|Page Views:||4,592 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
P1- Scramble up 3rd class until your comfort level warrants a belay, Climb into the huge dihedral, and follow it past a dirty wide section, then traverse left across a slab to a belay (5.8, 160 [to 210] ft.).
P2. Climb up a ways and then head right, linking discontinuous features to belay back towards the main dihedral (5.7, 120 ft.)
P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.).
P4. Climb the right crack, then go back left up a ramp system to a belay (5.6, 120 ft.).
P5. Climb a large, left-facing corner and turn a roof on either side with 5.8 moves. Continue to a ledge (150 ft.)
P6. A short 40 feet finds the top. Carefully scramble east for a good ways to find the descent route.