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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 630 ft, 5 pitches
FA: George Hurley and Mike Neri. FFA- M. Caldwell and Scarpella
Page Views: 670 total, 4/month
Shared By: paco on Jul 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details
Season raptor closures Details

Description

Hurley-Neri is only two pitches. Pitch one is steep 5.9 fists and such. Pitch two is steeper with a nice lengthy section of fists(crux). After that you can finish on Progression or Grapevine to the top.

This was an A1 aid line until Mike Caldwell and Mick Scarpella freed it in 1988.

While it's hard to give this climb a star because of general loosness and lichenisotis, some obscure Lumpy climbers and any fist crack junkies will enjoy this route.

P1. Climb the first 40ft of Progression then step right to a steep fist/hand crack and belay at a stance above. Some minor looseness involved.

P2. Take on the hand/fist(and wider) crack and continue for 100ft joining Progression again and belaying on a nice ledge in the middle of Grapevine's 3rd pitch. This steep and "interesting" pitch face climbs to the left for a short while to avoid a loose wide section and also includes a key fist jam against a brittle flake (crux).

If you hurry, you can still get the 4th ascent.

Protection

Bring a standard Lumpy rack to a #4 Camalot and at least two #3 Camalots. A #3.5 might also be nice.

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