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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer, Nate Arganbright, April 16, 2006
Page Views: 1,135 total · 12/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description [Edit]

Starting just right of the start to Mr. President, climb straight up to the big roof above. Traverse right under the roof for 25’ to a series of slots in the roof. Arrange some protection in these slots, then bust out the roof with some fairly gymnastic maneuvers. Move right into the right-angling, right-facing corner and follow it to its end. Cross the slab to the right and join Turnkorner Direct. Climb 10 or 12 feet up Turnkorner Direct’s right-facing corner, and belay from slings. Continue, for 3-4 pitches, up Turnkorner Direct, Laura Scudders, or the unfinished Kitty.

At this point in time, this route can be described as nothing more than a minor variation to an historical, but obscure, full-length route. It’s a spectacular pitch, by any standards, but it is really just the first completed piece of a larger puzzle/project. It’s been 7 years since I pinkpointed it though, and 4 years since I redpointed it, so I figured I should report it for others to enjoy. We’ve completed a 2nd pitch traversing out left from the belay, into the middle of the vast face between Mr. President and Turnkorner Direct, and 80’ or so of a 3rd pitch going straight up a faint crack/flake to its end. One bolt above here is as far as we’ve gotten, but it remains an active project. Not that anyone cares but, I would welcome any other suitors’ attempts to push the Kitty further, on one condition. The route has been established completely ground-up to this point, and I would ask that that style be respected.

Location [Edit]

Just right of the start of Mr. President is a big, right-facing corner that quickly turns into a horizontal roof extending out right for 60’ or so. The Kitty starts just right of this right-facing corner.

The best option for getting down is to continue up Turnkorner Direct or Laura Scudders to the top. If you don't want to walk down, you can bring two ropes, follow Laura Scudders to Mr. President and move left to the anchors atop Chain of Command. Two double-rope raps will get you down.

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot. There are currently two fixed wires on the pitch. The one beneath the roof because it just wouldn't come out and the one at the lip of the roof because it took a very hard fall. I would strongly recommend backing up the wire at the lip.

I'm giving it a PG-13 just as a precaution. On the first day of attempts, I fell off the upper corner and ripped two seemingly good pieces. I came frighteningly close to hitting the ground from at least 60 feet up. I've found different gear on subsequent ascents, but haven't fallen on it.

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