Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Jason Seaver, Jim Belcer, Nate Arganbright, April 16, 2006|
|Page Views:||1,582 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||jason seaver on Jul 11, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
At this point in time, this route can be described as nothing more than a minor variation to an historical, but obscure, full-length route. Its a spectacular pitch, by any standards, but it is really just the first completed piece of a larger puzzle/project. Its been 7 years since I pinkpointed it though, and 4 years since I redpointed it, so I figured I should report it for others to enjoy. Weve completed a 2nd pitch traversing out left from the belay, into the middle of the vast face between Mr. President and Turnkorner Direct, and 80 or so of a 3rd pitch going straight up a faint crack/flake to its end. One bolt above here is as far as weve gotten, but it remains an active project. Not that anyone cares but, I would welcome any other suitors attempts to push the Kitty further, on one condition. The route has been established completely ground-up to this point, and I would ask that that style be respected.
The best option for getting down is to continue up Turnkorner Direct or Laura Scudders to the top. If you don't want to walk down, you can bring two ropes, follow Laura Scudders to Mr. President and move left to the anchors atop Chain of Command. Two double-rope raps will get you down.
I'm giving it a PG-13 just as a precaution. On the first day of attempts, I fell off the upper corner and ripped two seemingly good pieces. I came frighteningly close to hitting the ground from at least 60 feet up. I've found different gear on subsequent ascents, but haven't fallen on it.