Avg: 2.9 from 23 votes
|FA:||Scott Kimball & Al Rubin|
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|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Sep 3, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
Landmarked left of Mr. President (an awesome 10+ pitch) is a distinct, right-facing dihedral that does not quite reach the ground. An intimidating looking start yields to enjoyable and even well-protected, jug climbing.... Once at the bottom of the corner, place gear and stoke up and over a tricky bulge to establish yourself in the corner proper. Forty feet of cool flared crack with thin hands and fingers, even stemming, puts you in front of the corner's headwall. Place good pro and stem up until you can step left and up to the anchor (could be cleaned up with new webbing and a new rap ring).... Quite out of character for most Lumpy routes, well worth the hike in itself!!!
Rap 100' back down or do Chain Of Command, the bolted (some bolts are 1/4" screwtops) face/arete above. Way cool "potato chip" flakes (some are loose) lead up and right past 6 bolts to a belay on a ledge (this anchor also needs new webbing and rap hangers). This pitch is 5.10+.... The Gillett guide shows 2 more bolts and the 11a crux above the anchor, I saw the next anchor but no protection bolts!!?? The heat may have been frying my brain.... Unique climbing!!!