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Routes in Sundance Buttress

Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Redman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slim Pickens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Scott Kimball & Al Rubin
Page Views: 1,588 total, 8/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Saving the best for last...I have overlooked this amazing line for years and I finally do it. Splitter!!! Gillett gives it 2 stars, I would give it 5! I feel Bonzo is for sure THE BEST 5.10 pitch in all of Lumpy!

Landmarked left of Mr. President (an awesome 10+ pitch) is a distinct, right-facing dihedral that does not quite reach the ground. An intimidating looking start yields to enjoyable and even well-protected, jug climbing.... Once at the bottom of the corner, place gear and stoke up and over a tricky bulge to establish yourself in the corner proper. Forty feet of cool flared crack with thin hands and fingers, even stemming, puts you in front of the corner's headwall. Place good pro and stem up until you can step left and up to the anchor (could be cleaned up with new webbing and a new rap ring).... Quite out of character for most Lumpy routes, well worth the hike in itself!!!

Rap 100' back down or do Chain Of Command, the bolted (some bolts are 1/4" screwtops) face/arete above. Way cool "potato chip" flakes (some are loose) lead up and right past 6 bolts to a belay on a ledge (this anchor also needs new webbing and rap hangers). This pitch is 5.10+.... The Gillett guide shows 2 more bolts and the 11a crux above the anchor, I saw the next anchor but no protection bolts!!?? The heat may have been frying my brain.... Unique climbing!!!


Small-medium nuts, 0.5"-1.5" cams. 60m rope to get off easily.
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I recently had a similar humbling experience on this route as Ivan did. It will expose any flaws in your flared thin hand and finger jamming technique. Since it is a corner, it seems stemming would be helpful but I agree with Ivan that many times this seems to pull you away from the jams, terrible as they may be. Jun 27, 2005
Hey Ivan, I don't get it, If you can toprope 11a in Indian Creek, you should most definitely be able to lead any 5.10 for that matter at a traditional granite crag like Sundance, What gives? FYI, Romulan Territory is 5.10-.5.10a/b if it makes you feel better. Jun 27, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Our team of 3 was humiliated by this climb. We started up it thinking, "5.10b hands, how hard can it be?" Maybe we'd get pumped and have to hang once or twice. We had all just been to the Montrail Splitter Camp at Indian Creek (fun time!) and had TR'd some 11a thin hands without too much trouble. I immediately hung twice at the first crux. Above that I was optimistic, but ended up making a couple of moves, flailing to get gear, hands squirting out hang. After repeating that about 5 times and making maybe 10' of "progress", I went down. Chuck repeated my antics, and then eventually more or less aided to the top. Luke did much better on TR, figuring out a few tricks, but still fell a bunch of times. Then I went up on TR and did it with one fall at the bottom.

There are basically no good hand jams. There are some fair jams that suck as you move up on them. The stems tend to push you to the right and out of the jams. One thing we learned was to not try to get the stems too soon. The other trick is to get over your feet quickly. You can't lean out for very long before your hands start to squirt out. So get your hips over your feet immediately.

I'll call this 10d. I [don't] climb real hard at Lumpy, but I've onsighted Romulan Territory 10c and Ziggie's Day Out 10d (very different type of climbing), and Bonzo was way harder than those. Or maybe I've been climbing at Eldo too much. Jun 26, 2005
David A. Turner
David A. Turner  
Great climbing, great gear (except for the easier start). Nice variety to do Bonzo's jamming, with the face climbing of Chains of Command. Jul 15, 2004
Thomas Jensen
Thomas Jensen  
Tape would have made it easier, but it always does. I peeled of quite a bit of flaky crap trying to get a decent stem. It seemed a little dirty. First moves off the ground wake you up and the pull into the corner were the best on the route. Don't TR off of the anchors the way they are (extend them) or your rope gets horrible (horriable?)twists going. HB offsets are THE gear for the route! Jun 12, 2004
david goldstein
david goldstein  
I basically agree w/ Tony B's comments except that I didn't have any problem w/ loose rock. May 19, 2004
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
It's great to hear from the first ascensionist why many of the bolts on Chain of Command are so bad. I replaced the anchor today with two new 3/8" stainless bolts and the second bolt which was a rusted 1/4". One more 1/4" and a half-in 3/8" before the traverse to the anchors still need replacement. Aug 14, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The route is a little loose in spots to be called the best route at Lumpy. It is also a little short, and not as good... It's a 2-star route with nice tricky and insecure moves with some small runouts and tricky gear, along with some bad rock. 3-star? No. 5.10b? No.

Anchors are one good bolt + ring (Fixe style) and one with a twist link. They are OK, but the twist-link faces off 90 deg and needs a link of chain to run right for pulling rope.

2 stars is on the generous side, but it's better than 1 star for sure, so I guess I'll give it that. Just for the bad rock alone (yes, I snapped off a flake or two, but I used a lot I didn't really trust that held) I have to take one off. Plus, it's a 110' pitch. How can 110' be the classic of a 600' cliff? Finishing on Chain Of Command adds some quality and makes this a good solid 2-star line.

5.10c/d? It felt like 10d, but I admit that I am not dialed into Lumpy, so I'll say least 10c though. I found it just as hard but more sustained than Chain Of Command. The climbing is somewhat similar to Romulan Territory dihedral, but a lot harder and less secure. If you skip all of the questionable holds, it gets harder still. So maybe between the difficulty of Romulan Territory on the Book at Lumpy and the dihedral pitch of Vertigo, in Eldo. Aug 3, 2003
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
I thought this was harder than Mr P, but maybe I was just tired. A great crack climb, that I will tape-up for next time. Good name for the route next to Mr P.--Ross Dec 6, 2002
When Larry Day & I put up chain of command in the 80s there where two old fixed pins in the corner about 10 ft past the roof. We yanked them and spent a couple afternoons cleaning the crack. It was chooked full of dirt. We put in the two bolt belay .Mike Caldwell & I Came back and bolted the next two pitches on lead over a period of three days or so because we were getting pounded by some of the most violent thunderstorms I have ever seen at lumpy. Anyway the bolting was less than perfect at the time and certainly needs to be updated! Aug 17, 2002
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
This is undoubtedly a superb pitch of corner-work. I highly recommend it, but only with the warning that it is HARD for the grade. Getting into, and then out of, the corner were the technical cruxes for me, but the whole line was nice and sustained. Definitely continue with Chain Of Command also. People say the bolts are bad, but if you got up Bonzo you won't fall on Chain Of Command. Feb 24, 2002
SANDBAG!!!!! Dec 9, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The heat wasn't fryin' your brain! I did Chain of Command in '94, and there were no bolts on the second pitch back then, either. It is still possible to lead this pitch, protecting it using a few TCUs. You move right off the belay and then more or less straight up, as I recall (the whole pitch is less than 50' long). The hardest move is right off the belay, and there is a 2 bolt anchor to end the pitch.

I agree, Bonzo is way cool! Sep 4, 2001