Type: Trad
FA: Scott Kimball & Al Rubin
Page Views: 2,131 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2021 Seasonal Raptor Closures - LIFTED For the 2021 season Details
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details. Details

Description

Saving the best for last...I have overlooked this amazing line for years and I finally do it. Splitter!!! Gillett gives it 2 stars, I would give it 5! I feel Bonzo is for sure THE BEST 5.10 pitch in all of Lumpy!

Landmarked left of Mr. President (an awesome 10+ pitch) is a distinct, right-facing dihedral that does not quite reach the ground. An intimidating looking start yields to enjoyable and even well-protected, jug climbing.... Once at the bottom of the corner, place gear and stoke up and over a tricky bulge to establish yourself in the corner proper. Forty feet of cool flared crack with thin hands and fingers, even stemming, puts you in front of the corner's headwall. Place good pro and stem up until you can step left and up to the anchor (could be cleaned up with new webbing and a new rap ring).... Quite out of character for most Lumpy routes, well worth the hike in itself!!!

Rap 100' back down or do Chain Of Command, the bolted (some bolts are 1/4" screwtops) face/arete above. Way cool "potato chip" flakes (some are loose) lead up and right past 6 bolts to a belay on a ledge (this anchor also needs new webbing and rap hangers). This pitch is 5.10+.... The Gillett guide shows 2 more bolts and the 11a crux above the anchor, I saw the next anchor but no protection bolts!!?? The heat may have been frying my brain.... Unique climbing!!!

Protection

Small-medium nuts, 0.5"-1.5" cams. 60m rope to get off easily.

Photos