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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,808 total · 44/month
Shared By: Nate Christiansen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

The Pin Route start at the dirty chimney on the north side of Twin Owls. You will see a blocky ramp that traverses to the right. Climb the chimney to the ramp and start the traverse. Keep going past a pin until you run to a 2 pin belay. You can go straight up from here or do a variation Sky Route which keeps traversing right past a pin until you must go straight up a right-facing dihedral for 1 to 2 more pitches. Either way, the climbing is VERY exposed and is an unbelievable solo and a superb trad route for the adventurous beginner. Descend via through a tight slot to the Bowels of the Owls.

Addendum: There is a somewhat popular variation of P2 called Sky Route, 5.3, PG-13. From the P1 belay, you continue up the right-angling ramp about 20 ft to where you can move left around a flake. There is an optional belay. You can continue on fun, exposed, longer-reach flakes & scoops, pulling to the top. 140 feet if skipping the optional belay.

Protection

Stoppers and a set of cams to probably 4" if wanting to lead it safely through the chimney.
This is a nice climb for its grade. It's possible to access the traverse ledge more directly, avoiding the dirty chimney. The variation which continues the traverse - Sky Route- is easier but more exposed as it continues out to the west edge and gives a more open view of the valley below. Sep 25, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Did this route today and was a nice way to reach the actual summit of the Owls after doing the Organ Pipes. (Easily reached by traversing left for about 150 yards along the Roosting Ramp). A good route, but even though some guide books call it a good beginner route, not sure I would bring too green a novice up here. There are some exposed traverses on both pitches which are hard to protect. Aug 7, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
This route collects snow on cooler, snowier days where more S-facing routes might not. Probably NW facing.

Addendum: Should we have a separate entry for the Sky Route? It has a distinct 2nd pitch. Jan 23, 2005
Umph!  
Sky Top (5.8) is a nice link up to Pin or Sky Way. In the overview picture it's the right-leaning dihedral below the Pin/Way intersection. It's fun 5.8 that traverses up and left into the dihedral and then pulls up to meet with Pin. This variation is seldom done. (Some "guide" up there asked me, "what the hell are you on?"). I climbed it a few years back and it was fairly dirty, but it wasn't a factor for the enjoyment or climbability. Feb 24, 2007
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.4
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
  5.4
Led this climb today. This is an excellent route--one of the best routes at this grade. The climbing is no harder than 5.4 as in the guide. Protection is good all around. Bring large cams to protect the offwidth crack on the second pitch. It protects well.

There is only one pin at the first belay not two. This confused us a bit given the description but the crack is obvious. There is an old scar so maybe the second pin fell out.

There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under a large block descender's right and just before the cave on the Bowels of the Owls decent. This is much easier than spelunking in the cave. 50 m rope is fine. Aug 2, 2009
Aaron Stokes
Colorado
 
Aaron Stokes   Colorado
 
Was up on the Pin Route yesterday (October 3, 2009) and added a new black sling and stainless steel quick-link to the chock-stone rap that descends into what I'm thinking is the Bowels of the Owls gully. Posted a beta-photo of new sling and chockstone. There is now an olive drab sling of unknown age, an old biner, and the new black sling/ss quick-link in place. Great route! Oct 4, 2009
Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
The 3rd pin encountered along the ramp on the Sky Route (after the pin route shoots up) is no longer there. I easily removed it with my fingers. It is regrettable this relic is gone, but I thought it was safer to remove it rather than have it clipped and fallen upon. Sep 16, 2014
Bobrunning Running
Madison, wi
 
Bobrunning Running   Madison, wi
 
The rap station has changed. It is no longer in the chimney. Hike down toward the chimney, but instead of turning left, look straight. There are a bunch of slings on a rock. It is a straight rap down. A 50 meter rope is enough. Sep 3, 2016

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