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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid
FA: Bill Eubank and Brad Van Diver
Page Views: 2,052 total, 10/month
Shared By: paco on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Located between Coyote and Anaconda, West Owl Direct was 1st free climbed by John Bachar and Douglas Snively in the '70s and renamed Silly Putty. As a freeclimb, it's still a Lumpy Ridge runout testpiece, but it's still an enjoyable aid climb, as well. West Owl Direct is a step up in difficulty from Anaconda; however, the quality of the rock is not as good. Much of the way you're dealing with banged-out pin scars, yet this climb also places you in one of the best positions on Twin Owls.

Protection

If aid climbing, bring a standard clean aid rack and extra TCUs. Lead one long pitch (60m?) to the roof, or belay on the top of the 5.9 flake and then fire to the roof from there. The anchor below roof has old bolts, but one can back it up with a crack above. From this belay, escape out left and continue up above the Wolf's Tooth column. P.S. Don't use the bunk anchors halfway up to the roof!

Photos

I'm with Bob. Leave the original name and leave the original free rating of .12a R. Unless you practice it and rehearse the gear, it's a scary lead. For grade, it's about spot on with other granite, .12a, trad testpieces. The onsight lead deserves an R rating but is a lot of fun and can be made safe enough. Tri-cams do help in the square pin scars. According to legend, after the FFA Bachar first said it was .11a or so - me thinks he was climbing really well at the time.

Another good bit of trivia for this route is that Meg Noffsinger led the 5.11+ that it usually top-roped on the right side of the starting flake. I don't think she got it clean, but she still got up it on the sharp end without decking, which on that kind of lead is what really matters. Burly girly. Anyone else besides Meg ever led that pitch? Oct 11, 2013
bob bradley
Estes Park, Colorado
bob bradley   Estes Park, Colorado
Just a comment about changing names of routes. The name chosen by the 1st ascent party was to identify the line climbed, not the style of climbing. If there is substantial variation between an original aid route and a free ascent, no problem. If the line is unchanged, why does anyone have the right to change the name? Just askin'. Sep 20, 2012
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12b C2 R
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12b C2 R
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I climb the 5.9 flake, and it was worth it. It looks easy but is for sure a Lumpy 9. We did top rope the dihedral, Eric did a great job. The horn at the belay does seem sketchy, but I gave it a couple headbutts and it seemed to hold. Aug 24, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I wasn't too happy with the rap anchor at the top of the 5.9 flake. It's a bunch of decent slings over a big horn, but there is a horizontal fracture line at the base of the horn. Beware. Aug 10, 2003
paco
 
paco  
 
One can rap with a 60m rope from the anchor below the roof down to the top of the 5.9 flake. Plus, the anchor below the roof now sports a spankin' new bolt as of 02/2002. Feb 21, 2002
The first pitch of this route is an excellent 5.9 flake crack. Definitely worthwhile by itself. In addition once installed on top of the flake, you can toprope the really cool (but not very protectable) dihedral to the right, which is about 5.11+. Feb 19, 2002