Type: Trad, Aid
FA: Bill Eubank and Brad Van Diver
Page Views: 3,074 total · 11/month
Shared By: paco on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Located between Coyote and Anaconda, West Owl Direct was 1st free climbed by John Bachar and Douglas Snively in the '70s and renamed Silly Putty. As a freeclimb, it's still a Lumpy Ridge runout testpiece, but it's still an enjoyable aid climb, as well. West Owl Direct is a step up in difficulty from Anaconda; however, the quality of the rock is not as good. Much of the way you're dealing with banged-out pin scars, yet this climb also places you in one of the best positions on Twin Owls.

Protection Suggest change

If aid climbing, bring a standard clean aid rack and extra TCUs. Lead one long pitch (60m?) to the roof, or belay on the top of the 5.9 flake and then fire to the roof from there. The anchor below roof has old bolts, but one can back it up with a crack above. From this belay, escape out left and continue up above the Wolf's Tooth column. P.S. Don't use the bunk anchors halfway up to the roof!

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