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West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty)

Name: West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty)
Rating: 2.1

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British C2 R

Routes in Twin Owls

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Arm and Hammer C2
	Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
	Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
	Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Copperhead C3
	Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
	Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hungry Man V5 6C
	Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	King Cobra C2
	One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rattler C3
	Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	True American Pinch V7-8 7B
	Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Viper C3-
	West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
	Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type:	Trad, Aid
FA:	Bill Eubank and Brad Van Diver
Page Views:	2,864 total · 11/month
Shared By:	paco on Mar 31, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

Located between Coyote and Anaconda, West Owl Direct was 1st free climbed by John Bachar and Douglas Snively in the '70s and renamed Silly Putty. As a freeclimb, it's still a Lumpy Ridge runout testpiece, but it's still an enjoyable aid climb, as well. West Owl Direct is a step up in difficulty from Anaconda; however, the quality of the rock is not as good. Much of the way you're dealing with banged-out pin scars, yet this climb also places you in one of the best positions on Twin Owls.

Protection

If aid climbing, bring a standard clean aid rack and extra TCUs. Lead one long pitch (60m?) to the roof, or belay on the top of the 5.9 flake and then fire to the roof from there. The anchor below roof has old bolts, but one can back it up with a crack above. From this belay, escape out left and continue up above the Wolf's Tooth column. P.S. Don't use the bunk anchors halfway up to the roof!