Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tink Wilson & George Lamb, 1958 (from Rossiter)?
Page Views: 17,624 total · 70/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: 2021 Seasonal Raptor Closures - LIFTED For the 2021 season Details

Description

Wolf's Tooth ascends a spectacular, ~110 foot high pillar that is detached from the main body of the East Owl. Hike up the Gem Lake trail, and take the cut-off which leads to the east side of Twin Owls (Hen and Chicken, Bowls of the Owls). As you near the rock, the pillar should become obvious in the center of the cliff as the front of a prominent prow. Wolf's Tooth is the chimney on the west side (the East side is Tiger's Tooth, considerably harder and more serious at 5.9+). However, I cannot recommend highly enough beginning this climb with the route Conad's, a long, vertical hand and fist crack on the Lower Owls that leads right to the pillar's base (described elsewhere).

P1. Ascend the strenuous wide crack/chimney, with good protection, and belay just below the top of the pillar. There is sometimes a fixed sling anchor at the top of this pitch which allows for a rappel with a 60 or 70 meter rope (a 60 might involve some downclimbing). It's worth summiting, however. 

P2. Take a flared 5.7 groove/chimney above the belay, or climb a thin 5.9 crack just right (recommended) and step into the groove. Follow as it gets easier and easier to the summit.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

Photos