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Routes in Twin Owls
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Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Arm and Hammer C2 |
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Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
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Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Copperhead C3 |
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Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hungry Man V5 6C |
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Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King Cobra C2 |
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One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rattler C3 |
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Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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True American Pinch V7-8 7B |
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Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Viper C3- |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R |
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Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tink Wilson & George Lamb, 1958 (from Rossiter)? |
| Page Views: | 19,767 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Wolf's Tooth ascends a spectacular, ~110 foot high pillar that is detached from the main body of the East Owl. Hike up the Gem Lake trail, and take the cut-off which leads to the east side of Twin Owls (Hen and Chicken, Bowls of the Owls). As you near the rock, the pillar should become obvious in the center of the cliff as the front of a prominent prow. Wolf's Tooth is the chimney on the west side (the East side is Tiger's Tooth, considerably harder and more serious at 5.9+). However, I cannot recommend highly enough beginning this climb with the route Conad's, a long, vertical hand and fist crack on the Lower Owls that leads right to the pillar's base (described elsewhere).
P1. Ascend the strenuous wide crack/chimney, with good protection, and belay just below the top of the pillar. There is sometimes a fixed sling anchor at the top of this pitch which allows for a rappel with a 60 or 70 meter rope (a 60 might involve some downclimbing). It's worth summiting, however.
P2. Take a flared 5.7 groove/chimney above the belay, or climb a thin 5.9 crack just right (recommended) and step into the groove. Follow as it gets easier and easier to the summit.
P1. Ascend the strenuous wide crack/chimney, with good protection, and belay just below the top of the pillar. There is sometimes a fixed sling anchor at the top of this pitch which allows for a rappel with a 60 or 70 meter rope (a 60 might involve some downclimbing). It's worth summiting, however.
P2. Take a flared 5.7 groove/chimney above the belay, or climb a thin 5.9 crack just right (recommended) and step into the groove. Follow as it gets easier and easier to the summit.
Photos
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