Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Layton Kor; FFA: Chris Fredericks and Jim Logan, early 1960s
Page Views: 25,790 total · 91/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is the hardest climb I have ever done. I can offer a first-hand account of the first two pitches only (we rapped due to the onset of darkness). However, the third pitch could not be more obvious, and if you can do the crux second pitch you should have no problems with it, according to my partner who had done the route previously.

Hike up the Gem Lake trail past a huge boulder, and take the left-hand approach path for Bowls of the Owls and Hen and Chickens Rock. The crack is an obvious wide affair, in a nebulous corner, which runs the entire height of the East Owl (shortly right of a prominent, deep chimney which also reaches the top). It is further recognized by a 30 foot pillar (the Rat's Tooth) which must be ascended to reach the crack's base.

P1. Ascend the hand crack on the left side of the pillar (5.9), or take either of two 5.10 finger cracks to the right. Go up the off-width for about 30 feet, then step left onto the face (to avoid too much punishment!) and climb to a belay ledge with bolts (5.9, 80 feet).

P2. Struggle up past a bulging body jam section (crux, old bolts and a #5 Camalot) and then make a difficult undercling to the left. Fight into a 5.10 chimney and belay at bolts soon after its rear (70 feet).

P3. Continue up the crack with more 5.10 OW, though not as hard. Belay or stretch to the summit, then go west to find the descent.

Protection Suggest change

Bring all the wide gear you and all your friends own! Seriously, most will want at least two #5 Camalots and 2 #4s, and possibly a couple of Big Bros for the 3rd pitch.