Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,025 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Sep 10, 2018 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Expect standard chimney fare with numerous cracks for protection. This is not cruiser 5.7, but what else would you expect on the Owls?!
The chimney starts out wide and comfy, but after a small ledge sporting a pile of poop, it squeezes down very quickly. Thrash past some chockstones. I ended up having to take off my helmet for a few moves, because it was so tight. You have to get out of the chimney a bit here to pass the tightest spot, but there is an excellent hand crack on the right wall for protection. I thought this was the crux.
After a short reprieve, the chimney tightens again near the top. There is a well-attached flake on the right that takes finger-sized pro, but the bottom portion of it is alarmingly thin and perhaps not so reliable, so be careful.
We found a hodgepodge anchor about 10 feet above the chimney, consisting of a nut and a mess of cordelette and webbing. I'm not sure how much one can count on this being here. If it's gone, leave your own anchor material or do another pitch to top out on The Owls (like the second pitch of East Ridge).
The chimney starts out wide and comfy, but after a small ledge sporting a pile of poop, it squeezes down very quickly. Thrash past some chockstones. I ended up having to take off my helmet for a few moves, because it was so tight. You have to get out of the chimney a bit here to pass the tightest spot, but there is an excellent hand crack on the right wall for protection. I thought this was the crux.
After a short reprieve, the chimney tightens again near the top. There is a well-attached flake on the right that takes finger-sized pro, but the bottom portion of it is alarmingly thin and perhaps not so reliable, so be careful.
We found a hodgepodge anchor about 10 feet above the chimney, consisting of a nut and a mess of cordelette and webbing. I'm not sure how much one can count on this being here. If it's gone, leave your own anchor material or do another pitch to top out on The Owls (like the second pitch of East Ridge).
Location
Hike the Gem Lake Trail for about a quarter mile, and take the approach trail breaking off left to Hen and Chickens. The route starts above the Hen and Chickens Buttress, a short distance right of the East Owl's SE corner and the more popular East Ridge route. Look for a major right-leaning chimney.
0 Comments