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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dan McClure, S. Kimball, T. Hansen, 1980
Page Views: 108 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a two-star climb that is presently under one-star conditions, owing to one bush and a flock of birds. The bush you can fight through, but the birds left a disgusting sticky mess in the climb that was harder to avoid without cheating to the right and out of the crack. Luckily, the crux is relatively clean.

Climb up any pitch that will get you near the base of the 3rd pitch of the Tilted Mitted. This is on a huge ledge on the upper 3rd of the lower Twin Owls. To the right edge of this, you will see a wide low angle 10-meter-long crack and flake system that ends at a bush before intercepting a radically right-leaning, slightly overhanging, overlapping fist-crack. That is to say, a fist-crack if you have large hands. It might just have well have been called "offwidth fight" in some sections as far as I am concerned. The climb was distinctively reminiscent of two other climbs I have done in my life: Horn's Mother (Vedauwoo 11a) and Original Sin (Rock Of Ages, Fern Canyon, 10d).

P1 (40 meters, 5.10+): Climb up the low angle junk and fight through the bush to reach the striking crack, which for the most part is #2-3.5 Camalot, of which I hope you packed doubles. Once through the bush the climb starts in earnest at 5.9, with the relative ease owing to the holds withing the crack on edges and flakes, as well as positive jams. As the climb gets higher, first [the] flakes and holds go away, then the pump sets in. Continue as the climb gets wider and reaches a distinct bulge, where some tricams go solidly into good rock and save you a few cams on your rack. Power up solid 5.10 moves to get into the crack above and place a large cam (3.5 Camalot) and then start the real battle. I was in up past my elbows at times and felt the this was 5.10+ sustained. My partner with small hands who on-sites up to 5.11d in Indian Creek resorted to aid to follow it at all. This is size-dependent and the angle of the dangle makes it tough to stack in the crack. The feet on the right are pretty small slopers. Just as I though I was going to blow a fuse, the angle let off and I was able to rest on good jams, then do a few more moves and place pro and stem again. The easy moves to the top felt harder than they should, due to my exhasution.

"Fist Fight" eh? Good name for it, I sure got my butt kicked.

Protection

A few sets of cams from 2" to 3.5" plus a 4" cam, and a few tricams for good placements ([lightweight]) between. Take some long slings to minimize rope drag. This is a long pitch!

Photos

Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
I would strongly suggest you up that rack to include 2-3 ea. #4 Camalots. John Tormelehto (aka OWM) did a fine job of on-sighting this one, but my fist fighting skills seemed to have dropped off a bit. Snivel, snivel. Sep 20, 2006

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