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Routes in Twin Owls
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Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Arm and Hammer C2 |
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Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
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Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Copperhead C3 |
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Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hungry Man V5 6C |
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Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King Cobra C2 |
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One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rattler C3 |
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Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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True American Pinch V7-8 7B |
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Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Viper C3- |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R |
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Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Dan McClure, S. Kimball, T. Hansen, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 858 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a two-star climb that is presently under one-star conditions, owing to one bush and a flock of birds. The bush you can fight through, but the birds left a disgusting sticky mess in the climb that was harder to avoid without cheating to the right and out of the crack. Luckily, the crux is relatively clean.
Climb up any pitch that will get you near the base of the 3rd pitch of the Tilted Mitted. This is on a huge ledge on the upper 3rd of the lower Twin Owls. To the right edge of this, you will see a wide low angle 10-meter-long crack and flake system that ends at a bush before intercepting a radically right-leaning, slightly overhanging, overlapping fist-crack. That is to say, a fist-crack if you have large hands. It might just have well have been called "offwidth fight" in some sections as far as I am concerned. The climb was distinctively reminiscent of two other climbs I have done in my life: Horn's Mother (Vedauwoo 11a) and Original Sin (Rock Of Ages, Fern Canyon, 10d).
P1 (40 meters, 5.10+): Climb up the low angle junk and fight through the bush to reach the striking crack, which for the most part is #2-3.5 Camalot, of which I hope you packed doubles. Once through the bush the climb starts in earnest at 5.9, with the relative ease owing to the holds withing the crack on edges and flakes, as well as positive jams. As the climb gets higher, first [the] flakes and holds go away, then the pump sets in. Continue as the climb gets wider and reaches a distinct bulge, where some tricams go solidly into good rock and save you a few cams on your rack. Power up solid 5.10 moves to get into the crack above and place a large cam (3.5 Camalot) and then start the real battle. I was in up past my elbows at times and felt the this was 5.10+ sustained. My partner with small hands who on-sites up to 5.11d in Indian Creek resorted to aid to follow it at all. This is size-dependent and the angle of the dangle makes it tough to stack in the crack. The feet on the right are pretty small slopers. Just as I though I was going to blow a fuse, the angle let off and I was able to rest on good jams, then do a few more moves and place pro and stem again. The easy moves to the top felt harder than they should, due to my exhasution.
"Fist Fight" eh? Good name for it, I sure got my butt kicked.
Climb up any pitch that will get you near the base of the 3rd pitch of the Tilted Mitted. This is on a huge ledge on the upper 3rd of the lower Twin Owls. To the right edge of this, you will see a wide low angle 10-meter-long crack and flake system that ends at a bush before intercepting a radically right-leaning, slightly overhanging, overlapping fist-crack. That is to say, a fist-crack if you have large hands. It might just have well have been called "offwidth fight" in some sections as far as I am concerned. The climb was distinctively reminiscent of two other climbs I have done in my life: Horn's Mother (Vedauwoo 11a) and Original Sin (Rock Of Ages, Fern Canyon, 10d).
P1 (40 meters, 5.10+): Climb up the low angle junk and fight through the bush to reach the striking crack, which for the most part is #2-3.5 Camalot, of which I hope you packed doubles. Once through the bush the climb starts in earnest at 5.9, with the relative ease owing to the holds withing the crack on edges and flakes, as well as positive jams. As the climb gets higher, first [the] flakes and holds go away, then the pump sets in. Continue as the climb gets wider and reaches a distinct bulge, where some tricams go solidly into good rock and save you a few cams on your rack. Power up solid 5.10 moves to get into the crack above and place a large cam (3.5 Camalot) and then start the real battle. I was in up past my elbows at times and felt the this was 5.10+ sustained. My partner with small hands who on-sites up to 5.11d in Indian Creek resorted to aid to follow it at all. This is size-dependent and the angle of the dangle makes it tough to stack in the crack. The feet on the right are pretty small slopers. Just as I though I was going to blow a fuse, the angle let off and I was able to rest on good jams, then do a few more moves and place pro and stem again. The easy moves to the top felt harder than they should, due to my exhasution.
"Fist Fight" eh? Good name for it, I sure got my butt kicked.
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