Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Paul Mayrose, O'Conner,1963|
|Page Views:||1,511 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Sep 30, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Approach: From the Crack of Fear area, scramble up and right along the base of the crag passing Twister until you get to the high point and a flat bench. The obvious chimney is Tighter Squeeze. The thin, horizontal crack running out left of the chimney with a couple of bolts and a pin is the 11d Last Dance, formerly known as the A2 East Wing. If you're near the East Ridge, walk left a short distance past a steep face to the bench and the start of the route.
The climb: hand jamming and chimneying lead to a ledge from which you can experience the massive bowels of this chimney. Above is a constriction. Chimney up inside to place a high big cam. We used the #6 Friend here. Drop back down and chimney sideways to the outside edge. Make a move up until you can stem out to some grooves with your back against the edge of the chimney. You can place another big cam here. Up and back into the chimney which is pretty tight "frogging" (as Chuck called it) with good gear in a thin crack. I learned here that jugs don't help much in tight chimneys since you can't lean back to use your feet. You have to ignore the jugs and keep your hands low to push up. At some point here I moved right and out of the chimney rather than persist in abusing myself. The final exciting moves swing around a chockstone to the top.
Getting down: You can continue to the top as for East Ridge, or you can scrample right and slightly up to good slings and rings at the top of the Turn, Turn, Turn chimney, just left of Rather Fight Than Switch. Since these slings are not permanent anchors, be prepared to go to the top or to rig your own anchor.