Type: Trad
FA: Mike Neri and Casey Swanson, 1977
Page Views: 3,695 total · 18/month
Shared By: jason seaver on May 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This fine pitch is on the east face of the Twin Owls. 30 feet right of the base of the East Ridge is a very obvious, wide chimney. This is Turn, Turn, Turn - 5.7. The next continuous crack system to the right is Switch Cracks - 5.8. Switch Cracks bails left onto Turn, Turn, Turn after 70 feet while Rather Fight Than switch continues up the crack system through the obvious roof above. There is excellent jamming throughout the entire pitch with some wild, STEEP hands through the final roof. I'd say it's on the burly side of the 10a grade. You can rap from a sling anchor just down and left from the top of the pitch, or continue with another fun pitch of 5.7 or so.

[AKA: Smoke Um If Ya Got UM]

Protection

A few big pieces (#3 Camalot size) are nice to have.

Photos

Tape up, take a few deep breaths, and go for it. Warning -- this 5.10a is not a Shelf Rd. or Boulder Canyon warm up. Sep 3, 2003
A #4 is a great piece to have to protect right before you begin the crux roof. This climb is probably the most difficult 10a I've ever attempted. Aug 30, 2010
climber76
Loveland/Vail, CO
  5.10b/c
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
  5.10b/c
I am not sure why this climb does not get more attention. One of the better one pitch Lumpy climbs. It is technically moderate but severely strenous (at least with my technique). The protection is good. A #2, 3, 4, and 5 Camalot will absolutely sew up crux. It is much, much harder than Gollum's Arch Crack. 10b/c, I would say. Sep 21, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10c
I think this route probably doesn't get the attention it deserves, because it's in a relatively obscure location and it's kind of dirty. This route is good - albeit a bit sandbagged in my honest opinion. I think I have been on harder 5.11- in places. But, it's a good route nonethless and protects well. It truly is better to fight for this one than switch and cruise the 5.8. Very worth it. Aug 19, 2012
Eran Viimeinen
Colorado
  5.10a
Eran Viimeinen   Colorado
  5.10a
Followed this fine route this afternoon. While I will say that it is physically and mentally demanding (on lead), with all due respect, I do not think that it is sandbagged. That said, this is not a "Beginner's 10a". I am 5'11" and did not have any serious reach issues through the crux. Leaving the helmet on the ground will help w/ placing gear high at the crux and maneuvering. It's a bit wonky (in a Fun way!), and a little uncharacteristic of Lumpy, but if you've done some roofs before, or climbed in Vedauwoo, WY then you will find this route less intimidating IMHO. Enjoy! Sep 21, 2012
Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Hands, hands, hands! Although it doesn't look like it from the ground, it's hands all the way through the crux, with a bit of off hands right before crux. Super fun route! Aug 14, 2016