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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Mike Neri and Casey Swanson, 1977
Page Views: 3,414 total · 18/month
Shared By: jason seaver on May 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This fine pitch is on the east face of the Twin Owls. 30 feet right of the base of the East Ridge is a very obvious, wide chimney. This is Turn, Turn, Turn - 5.7. The next continuous crack system to the right is Switch Cracks - 5.8. Switch Cracks bails left onto Turn, Turn, Turn after 70 feet while Rather Fight Than switch continues up the crack system through the obvious roof above. There is excellent jamming throughout the entire pitch with some wild, STEEP hands through the final roof. I'd say it's on the burly side of the 10a grade. You can rap from a sling anchor just down and left from the top of the pitch, or continue with another fun pitch of 5.7 or so.

[AKA: Smoke Um If Ya Got UM]

Protection

A few big pieces (#3 Camalot size) are nice to have.

Photos

Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Hands, hands, hands! Although it doesn't look like it from the ground, it's hands all the way through the crux, with a bit of off hands right before crux. Super fun route! Aug 14, 2016
Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
  5.10a
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
  5.10a
Followed this fine route this afternoon. While I will say that it is physically and mentally demanding (on lead), with all due respect, I do not think that it is sandbagged. That said, this is not a "Beginner's 10a". I am 5'11" and did not have any serious reach issues through the crux. Leaving the helmet on the ground will help w/ placing gear high at the crux and maneuvering. It's a bit wonky (in a Fun way!), and a little uncharacteristic of Lumpy, but if you've done some roofs before, or climbed in Vedauwoo, WY then you will find this route less intimidating IMHO. Enjoy! Sep 21, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
I think this route probably doesn't get the attention it deserves, because it's in a relatively obscure location and it's kind of dirty. This route is good - albeit a bit sandbagged in my honest opinion. I think I have been on harder 5.11- in places. But, it's a good route nonethless and protects well. It truly is better to fight for this one than switch and cruise the 5.8. Very worth it. Aug 19, 2012
climber76
Loveland/Vail, CO
  5.10b/c
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
  5.10b/c
I am not sure why this climb does not get more attention. One of the better one pitch Lumpy climbs. It is technically moderate but severely strenous (at least with my technique). The protection is good. A #2, 3, 4, and 5 Camalot will absolutely sew up crux. It is much, much harder than Gollum's Arch Crack. 10b/c, I would say. Sep 21, 2010
A #4 is a great piece to have to protect right before you begin the crux roof. This climb is probably the most difficult 10a I've ever attempted. Aug 30, 2010
Tape up, take a few deep breaths, and go for it. Warning -- this 5.10a is not a Shelf Rd. or Boulder Canyon warm up. Sep 3, 2003