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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Aid, 100 ft
FA: Aaron Walters and Bob Bradley, 1994
Page Views: 1,355 total, 8/month
Shared By: paco on Mar 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

A pretty dang cool aid line. Copperhead takes the seams and cracks left of Viper and just right of Autumn Mist.

Start in an alcove/chimney just down and right of Autumn Mist and Central Chimney. It's a bit awkward right off the bat, and I used a #5 Camalot to reach the first of the mank fixed heads. From there, traverse right passing an old bolt and two more heads to reach the base of the main crack. Continue 40ft or so on C1 cams and nuts until reaching the obvious crux. Now, bring out the trickery and aid lightly through the seam to the first of two bolts. Pass these and make a scary-larry hook move on rotten rock to one more bolt and then the anchors. Just so you know, this hook move is quite rotten and I've seen people resort to a cheater stick and even a pendulum left to Autumn Mist.

From here, rap 95ft or continue upwards joining Autumn Mist for its 2nd pitch.

Protection

Bring doubles of cams to a #3 Camalot and one to two sets of nuts. For the crux, bring micro nuts, beaks, tricams, a big cam hook and a right angle pika toucan (or another beak?).

A clean ascent of Copperhead relies on two fixed heads on the traverse right at the start. The old A4 crux goes C3 w/o any fixed pro.

There are three bolts on the route and a three bolt anchor up top. All bolts especially the anchors needed replacement and have been replaced by Eli Helmuth.

Photos

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Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
I replaced the the three 1/4" bolts of the anchor on this route with two 3/8" stainless in early August. Aug 20, 2003