Type: Aid, 100 ft
FA: Aaron Walters and Bob Bradley, 1994
Page Views: 1,517 total · 8/month
Shared By: paco on Mar 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

A pretty dang cool aid line. Copperhead takes the seams and cracks left of Viper and just right of Autumn Mist.

Start in an alcove/chimney just down and right of Autumn Mist and Central Chimney. It's a bit awkward right off the bat, and I used a #5 Camalot to reach the first of the mank fixed heads. From there, traverse right passing an old bolt and two more heads to reach the base of the main crack. Continue 40ft or so on C1 cams and nuts until reaching the obvious crux. Now, bring out the trickery and aid lightly through the seam to the first of two bolts. Pass these and make a scary-larry hook move on rotten rock to one more bolt and then the anchors. Just so you know, this hook move is quite rotten and I've seen people resort to a cheater stick and even a pendulum left to Autumn Mist.

From here, rap 95ft or continue upwards joining Autumn Mist for its 2nd pitch.

Protection

Bring doubles of cams to a #3 Camalot and one to two sets of nuts. For the crux, bring micro nuts, beaks, tricams, a big cam hook and a right angle pika toucan (or another beak?).

A clean ascent of Copperhead relies on two fixed heads on the traverse right at the start. The old A4 crux goes C3 w/o any fixed pro.

There are three bolts on the route and a three bolt anchor up top. All bolts especially the anchors needed replacement and have been replaced by Eli Helmuth.

Photos

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Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
I replaced the the three 1/4" bolts of the anchor on this route with two 3/8" stainless in early August. Aug 20, 2003