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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Bradley, 1960s
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Deb Thompson on Nov 23, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is an interesting 2-pitch line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. This is just right of a large right-facing dihedral and ascends an inviting crack/flake system on P1. P2 climbs more like an adventure climb. There are more lines to play on here (Sunset Arete, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.

Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.

Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney & Crack of Fear.

Protection

Standard rack with cams to #4 Camalot (#2 BD wire useful).

Photos

John Maurer
Denver, CO
 
John Maurer   Denver, CO
 
I think this first pitch is classic and has some great rock. The left hand variant is very nice, too. It made more sense to me to continue up through the beginning of the second pitch and belay from a large flake and solid crack. Many options to downclimb/rap from this area without leaving any gear. Jul 8, 2008
303scott  
 
For the second pitch we ended up in the Tilted Mitten chimney. It fit the description (a right-leaning weakness), and you can't really see the chimney from where we belayed. In any case, it seemed like the natural second pitch as it is located almost directly above the first pitch. If you want to stay on route, then I'm guessing you need to head way right to get there. Aug 30, 2010

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