One of Life's Little Problems
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches |
FA: | Bob Bradley, 1960s |
Page Views: | 154 total · 1/month |
Shared By: | Deb Thompson on Nov 23, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is an interesting 2-pitch line on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. This is just right of a large right-facing dihedral and ascends an inviting crack/flake system on P1. P2 climbs more like an adventure climb. There are more lines to play on here (Sunset Arete, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Alignment of the Misaligned, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.
Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.
Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney & Crack of Fear.
Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up and right on a trail until you come to a large right-facing dihedral which is described as an alcove in Gillett's guide and drawn in on page 212 of Rossiter's guide. It is probably 400 ft up and right from the nadir.
Climb up various crack and flakes to join a lieback about 50 ft up. This first section protects with wires and small cams to red Alien size. You can protect the lieback with a #4 Camalot. Continue up to a short section to a large sloping ledge system and find a belay up near a right-angling system with a fist-sized crack on its left. Pitch 2 has two starts. The left start begins here and works up cracks, flakes, and brushy chimney moves with a traverse right when you reach an bulge. Move back up and connect with the same system. The right start starts 30 feet to the right and goes straight up to this point. Continue up with 2 more short traverses right to gain a nice ledge in a shady alcove. You can belay here (especially if you belayed at the tree above Second Thoughts, if you TR'ed those 3 lines) with #3.5 and 4 Camalots. Pull a funky move yarding on a chicken head with a #2 BD wire for psychological protection and gain easier terrain to the Roosting Ramp. Walkoff right past Central Chimney & Crack of Fear.
Denver, CO