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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Aid, 3 pitches
FA: Kor and Dalke, 1965.
Page Views: 1,653 total, 10/month
Shared By: paco on Nov 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Viper is a quality line located just to the left of Crack of Fear. Look for a bolt leading to a scary-larry line of fixed heads and there you have it.

P1. C3-, fixed or A4 if the heads are gone (which they rarely are). Make a tricky move just off the ground to reach the bolt (or if youre not feeling all tough guy bring a stick clip). The head ladder above isn't super inspiring; however, there is a yellow TCU-sized pinscar half way up. After reaching the crack, it's all C1 stoppers and cams. As long as you have enough gear, skip the 1st belay mentioned in the guidebooks and continue onward switching to the crack out left and on up to a two bolt anchor(one good, one bad).

P2 5.7 C2 fixed. Aid a C1+ left-facing flake, then mantle or use a large hook to stand on a flake out left. The rock shoes may come in handy here as you make some mixed moves to gain the next flake above. Pull on fixed gear, and follow this flake until you're able to climb out left on a diagonal crack passing an old suspect angle. Then freeclimb up a 5.7ish corner until the rope runs out.

P3. 5.3, run to the top via easy cracks and ramps.

Protection

Bring the old Lumpy aid rack. Doubles from #0 TCU to #3 Camalot. One #4 Camalot, two sets stoppers, tri cams, one #1 Lowe ball, maybe a big hook and some rock shoes.

Photos

Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
The first pitch isn't as hard as the second if you go to the anchors just to the right of the big roof above 'Copperhead'. The copperheads seem to be pretty sturdy, but the crux of the climb comes higher up in the "C1" crack with some hard to stick, yet well protected moves. All in all, probably C2 (2+on a high gravity day). Cool climb. Feb 12, 2005