Type: Trad
FA: Mark Hesse & Larry Bruce, ~ 1970
Page Views: 8,923 total · 40/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


This is a long, excellent, one-pitch hand crack which makes the preferred start to the classic Wolf's Tooth. It lies on the Lower Twin Owls, the large buttress which, suprisingly enough, lies directly below Twin Owls. In fact, when viewed from the parking lot it is difficult to distinguish them. "Conad's" is on the small west face of the Lower Owls, and is not visible from the parking lot.

Take the Gem [Lake] trail, but branch left after about 50 feet on a marked approach trail that disintegrates all-too-quickly. Bushwhack and scramble up the steep hillside, aiming for the west face. The route is easily identified by a roof-capped inset, about 20 feet high, out of which emerges the long, slightly left-leaning hand crack. Climb it (sustained 5.9) to a belay directly below the Wolf's Tooth Pinnacle on the Twin Owls.

Descend to the east and find a steep trail on the east side of Twin Owls, or better, continue with Wolf's Tooth (or another route).

If you need to return to the base of the climb, you can scramble directly down the East Side of the Lower Owls, which is faster than going over to the approach trail; otherwise, the trail is far more pleasant. If you continue on Wolfs Tooth or any other Twin Owls route, you can descend on the west side of the Owls to get back to the base of Conads--the scrambling is very confusing and annoying, however. Take care not to get cliffed.


Standard rack to a #4 Friend, with extra hand-sized pieces.
If you are intending to climb "Wolf's Tooth," but find another party in front of you, climb "Tiger Tooth," which is directly on the opposite side of the pillar. It is something like 9+ initially, but easier higher up, and still just as fun. Sep 28, 2001
Nate Christiansen  
Fantastic climbing. A little variety from a tad overhang budge, hands, fingers, offwidth. Good link up to Wolf's Tooth. Aug 1, 2003
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
One of my favorite single pitches at Lumpy. Apr 23, 2005
David Carter
Salt Lake City
David Carter   Salt Lake City
...awesome for only one pitch, fun climbing with decent rests and easy pro. Sep 7, 2005
Certainly my favorite single pitch 9 at Lumpy so far. Excelent! Do a few laps if you're waiting for one of the teeth to open up. Thanks for the hand yesterday, David... sucks to forget the book. Glad you were there! Sep 12, 2005
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
This route was a struggle for me, as I'm more of a face climber than a hand crack climber. The middle third of this route was stout and the climbing physical and sustained. I would have to say this is one of the most demanding (9) pitches I've climbed anywhere. But the rock is excellent and the setting is superb.Gunna go back and do this one again and again... Sep 13, 2005
Did this to approach Tiger's Tooth. This pitch is awesome! It is a great pitch to work on hand-size, it is fairly uniform in width except for the wide section. To me this was like Lumpy's version of Generic Crack in Donnely Canyon. Similar length, size, and difficulty. Highly recommended!! Oct 24, 2005
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Sick line. Very fun. Slung chockstone at top allows for quick descent. 1 70m just reaches for a TR. Doubles in the hand sizes work great, i.e. #1-#3 Camalot with one each of 0.3-0.75. HANDS, HANDS, HANDS! Aug 22, 2011
Brandon Groza
Bend, OR
Brandon Groza   Bend, OR
Super fun climb. Take the same gully for Organ Pipes, as Conad's is around the corner from that climb to the left. Conad's seems to face more northwest than west. Pry goes without saying, but don't forget your tape in the car. Oct 24, 2011
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This is a sleeper classic. Loads and loads of highly demanding, steep and slightly overhung hand/fingers crack, on iconic Lumpy Ridge A+ rock quality and lots of varied movements; not just your same thing over and over. Keeping this at 5.9 is really saying something. Way harder than J-crack which is also 5.9. I was really happy when I got to the top and only had to aid once (on follow). Sep 26, 2016