Avg: 3.6 from 132 votes
|FA:||Mark Hesse & Larry Bruce, ~ 1970|
|Page Views:||12,104 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
This is a long, excellent, one-pitch hand crack which makes the preferred start to the classic Wolf's Tooth. It lies on the Lower Twin Owls, the large buttress which, suprisingly enough, lies directly below Twin Owls. In fact, when viewed from the parking lot it is difficult to distinguish them. "Conad's" is on the small west face of the Lower Owls, and is not visible from the parking lot.
Take the Gem [Lake] trail, but branch left after about 50 feet on a marked approach trail that disintegrates all-too-quickly. Bushwhack and scramble up the steep hillside, aiming for the west face. The route is easily identified by a roof-capped inset, about 20 feet high, out of which emerges the long, slightly left-leaning hand crack. Climb it (sustained 5.9 with a short wide section 2/3 of the way up) to a belay directly below the Wolf's Tooth Pinnacle on the Twin Owls.
There are usually rap slings around a constriction at the top of the route that allow for a single rope rap back down to the base with a 70 meter rope. A 60 meter rope barely makes it (possibly with minor downclimbing) if you rap uphill from the base of the route. You may want to be prepared to back up the slings with additional cord. Or better yet, continue with Wolf's Tooth (or another route).
Alternatively, you can scramble directly down the East Side of the Lower Owls, and then back up to the base of the route. Or, if you brought everything with you, head down the trail that leads to Hen and Chickens Rock at the southeast corner of Twin Owls proper. If you continue on Wolfs Tooth or any other Twin Owls route, you can descend on the west side of the Owls to get back to the base of Conads--the scrambling is confusing and time-consuming, however. It's probably easier to traverse back to the base of Wolf's Tooth and then rap from the slings at the top of Conads (take care getting to the anchor).