Type: Trad
FA: Mark Hesse & Larry Bruce, ~ 1970
Page Views: 12,104 total · 44/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details


This is a long, excellent, one-pitch hand crack which makes the preferred start to the classic Wolf's Tooth. It lies on the Lower Twin Owls, the large buttress which, suprisingly enough, lies directly below Twin Owls. In fact, when viewed from the parking lot it is difficult to distinguish them. "Conad's" is on the small west face of the Lower Owls, and is not visible from the parking lot.

Take the Gem [Lake] trail, but branch left after about 50 feet on a marked approach trail that disintegrates all-too-quickly. Bushwhack and scramble up the steep hillside, aiming for the west face. The route is easily identified by a roof-capped inset, about 20 feet high, out of which emerges the long, slightly left-leaning hand crack. Climb it (sustained 5.9 with a short wide section 2/3 of the way up) to a belay directly below the Wolf's Tooth Pinnacle on the Twin Owls.

There are usually rap slings around a constriction at the top of the route that allow for a single rope rap back down to the base with a 70 meter rope. A 60 meter rope barely makes it (possibly with minor downclimbing) if you rap uphill from the base of the route. You may want to be prepared to back up the slings with additional cord. Or better yet, continue with Wolf's Tooth (or another route).

Alternatively, you can scramble directly down the East Side of the Lower Owls, and then back up to the base of the route. Or, if you brought everything with you, head down the trail that leads to Hen and Chickens Rock at the southeast corner of Twin Owls proper. If you continue on Wolfs Tooth  or any other Twin Owls route, you can descend on the west side of the Owls to get back to the base of Conads--the scrambling is confusing and time-consuming, however. It's probably easier to traverse back to the base of Wolf's Tooth  and then rap from the slings at the top of Conads (take care getting to the anchor).


Standard rack to a #4 Friend, with doubles on hand-sized pieces.