Type: Aid, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Bradley and Charlie Kemp, 1963.
Page Views: 711 total · 4/month
Shared By: paco on Nov 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

"The outside (west) edge of the tooth holds a frightening aid line." as quoted from Bernard Gillett in his guide to RMNP. Well said... what made Bob Bradley climb this line in 1963!? I dunno.

Other than one old fixed head, the Cavity goes clean. The first 30ft presents the crux, and after that, it's all C1 to the top.

P1. C3+. make some hairy moves off the ground and clip the old head. Continue upward on thin aid until the base of the upper crack is reached. Make a move or two through rotten-ass rock until things get better and C1 it to the top of the tooth. 140ft.

P2. 5.9 or 5.7 go to the top via p.2 of Wolf's Tooth.

Protection

Standard clean aid rack inc. doubles from #00 TCU/Aliens to #4 Camalot. Extra thin stuff for the crux- RPs, HBs, micro nuts, two #1 Lowe balls, smallest 2cam, hooks and beaks.

Photos

J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Damn it hemmes!! You stole this one from me!! Good show though...I always thought it would go. Jan 1, 2004
alpinglow
city, state
alpinglow   city, state
Clean? WOW, nice work Senor Paco.

You haul a crash pad up there? Jan 1, 2004
paco
  5.9 C3+
paco  
  5.9 C3+
I didn't haul the crash pad up there... but that's not a bad idea.

Note to soloists: bring two #4 Camalots and one #5 for the anchor under the tooth. Jan 2, 2004