Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 231 total · 1/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is an interesting climb on the Lower Owls, with a very short approach. Good for those who enjoy (or want to get some mileage on) wide cracks and chimneys, but at a moderate grade. The mitten is a large, leaning block midway up the right side of the Lower Owls. Take the approach trail to the Lower Twin Owls trail. The route starts a little uphill from the lowest point of the cliff.

P1. 3 possibilities: a) take a blackened inset, with a finger crack, which leads to a short squeeze chimney, and continue more easily to a ledge below a wide crack (5.9); b) take a hand crack just left, and continue up an easy groove to the same belay (5.7); c) start further left in the easy groove.

P2. Climb the wide crack, go up the right side of the mitten, and tunnel through the roof at its top; belay just above (5.8).

P3. Walk over right, then climb a square cut, right-leaning chimney with good hand-sized protection. Turn the [weird] roof at its top, and belay beneath Twin Owls (5.7).

Climb a route on that rock, or descend right and scramble around to the base.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Friend; two to sew it up.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
P2 is quite fun. For cluckers like me, a #4.5 Camalot & 2 #4 Camalots (old style) are nice. Near the top of P2, there is a rope pinching crack. A red Alien above it on the right can help keep the rope out of the trouble. Addendum: wires, singles to #0.75 + doubles #1 to #4 Camalot + #4.5 Camalot for cluckers. Aug 11, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
In my opinion, this is a great climb - all the pitches are fun, the climbing is interesting and varied. The chimney on the last pitch is amazing. We did the 7 variation on the first pitch and enjoyed it. Sep 15, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
For the middle start, a single rack to #4 C4 and dbl in 2-3 range is plenty of gear. I didn't find a need for a #5 C4. The middle first pitch is kind of crappy after the first 20ft, but P2/3 are worth doing once. Sep 25, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.7
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.7
Good climb, and if linked up into Wolf's Tooth, it would be a great tour of the Owls. We climbed a variation of P2. Starting on P1c, in the above description, we belayed below an overhanging wall/short, left-facing corner. We took this corner to a low angle area full of bushes and a dead tree (the dead tree is a good landmark to belay below) and belayed below a hand crack through an overlap. We climbed the handcrack through the overlap to a large alcove, chimneyed up to a thin l-facing corner, and belayed at the top of the mitten. We called it "Jilted Kitten" and rated it 5.6. It is good and worth doing. The 3rd pitch is awesome and a bit soft for Lumpy 5.8. Sep 14, 2014