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Routes in Twin Owls
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Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Arm and Hammer C2 |
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Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
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Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Copperhead C3 |
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Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hungry Man V5 6C |
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Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King Cobra C2 |
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One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rattler C3 |
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Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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True American Pinch V7-8 7B |
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Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Viper C3- |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R |
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Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,208 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a nice route if you like chimney climbing, if not best to keep your distance.
This climb starts from the big ledge left of Wolfstooth but right of the big rotten cleft bisecting the face. There are three options for starting which converge below the obvious chimney. The hand crack on the left is the nicest(5.7), and the low angle, left angling chimney/crack in the center is the easiest. One can continue the first pitch on up into the chimney but to help communication a belay here may be advisable. Climb up the steep, classic "boot&butt" chimney past a chockstone to a deep, flat-bottomed cave. Belay in the cave or on a ledge above on some boulders. The last lead starts out in a right facing corner and exits early to the face on the right for the easiest passage.
Unlike the Bowels of the Owls, this chimney is quite strenuous and exposed.
This climb starts from the big ledge left of Wolfstooth but right of the big rotten cleft bisecting the face. There are three options for starting which converge below the obvious chimney. The hand crack on the left is the nicest(5.7), and the low angle, left angling chimney/crack in the center is the easiest. One can continue the first pitch on up into the chimney but to help communication a belay here may be advisable. Climb up the steep, classic "boot&butt" chimney past a chockstone to a deep, flat-bottomed cave. Belay in the cave or on a ledge above on some boulders. The last lead starts out in a right facing corner and exits early to the face on the right for the easiest passage.
Unlike the Bowels of the Owls, this chimney is quite strenuous and exposed.
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