Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Chapman & Steve Hickman, 1963 (from Rossiter)?
Page Views: 8,521 total · 35/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Organ Pipes is a very strange moderate route (with an excellent 5.8+ crack variation) on the Lower Twin Owls, which is the large buttress directly below Twin Owls, and essentially connected to them. The route [used to be] identified from the [old] parking lot by some steep looking grooves, left of a huge corner, which reach up to the center of the Twin Owls. Take the marked approach trail from the new parking lot, following the signs for Lower Twin Owls. When the trail reaches the broken rock at the base of Lower Twin Owls, head left along the base. You'll soon (~35') see a wide, forested gully (which ascends West of the Twin Owls) on your right heading uphill. Hike and scramble up the gully (steep & loose for some) for several hundred feet until you can see the distinctive Organ Pipes (huge corner) through the trees uphill to your right. The start is in an alcove at the base of the (now less-steep looking) grooves (next to a leaning tree) with the large wall of the corner looming to the right.

P1. Pick a groove fairly close to the corner, and use clever route finding to attain a perch in the corner about 100 feet up (insecure, Lumpy-style 5.6).

P2. Climb more of the same, to a ledge just below the top. Belay here, or climb the corner (5.6), a crack just left (5.7), or a beautiful hand crack left of that (5.8, recommended).

Descend by scrambling east along the base of Twin Owls, to pick up the eastern approach trail, or continue up a route above. If taking the easiest variation, the route is exactly 200 feet long.

Protection

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot.

Photos