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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 6,350 total · 30/month
Shared By: Erik Corkran on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

See Wolf's Tooth for basic location. This is the route that climbs the crack between the right side of the detached pillar and the main buttress of the Owl (Wolf's Tooth climbs the left side).

This is an excellent route, with very sustained climbing on the crack section of pitch one. The bottom is somewhat overhanging hand/fist crack, which opens to offwidth after about 25 feet. The offwidth continues to widen until it becomes a squeeze chimney after about 60 feet. Shortly before the squeeze the crack is too wide for a #5 Camalot. A #3-4 Big Bro could probably be placed here, but this placement may be difficult. I found one section near this point particularly confusing (took two tries) so I would say this is the crux. In general, the offwidth is steep and sustained, so people will probably find different points to be "the" crux. At about 60 feet, the crack becomes a chimney, and you can fit inside.

The chinney has a reputation for being run out. You can protect it with small gear IF you look around inside it and don't stay way out on the edge. You will not get gear every few feet, but I got several pieces in here.

This pitch is easier than Turnkorner's offwidth roof, but it is not your "average" 5.9. Placing gear and keeping it out of your way will be strenuous. The thought of falling into the dihedral while leaning out of it is not exactly comforting.

Pitch two provides a couple of choices, a 5.7 to the left, or thin 5.9 crack / corner on the right. I have not done the 5.9, but the 5.7 is a nice pitch. Climb turns into a scramble from here. Descend the Bowels of the Owls route (standard descent).

Protection

If it's big, bring it. Starts as hand & fist crack, but widens past #5 Camalot size. Bring Stoppers and smaller cams for the 2nd half of pitch one, and for pitch 2.

Photos

I recently climbed Tiger's Tooth (9+) on Twin Owls with a friend. The crux is best protected with a 5 Camalot, which we didn't have (yikes!) or a 6 Wild Country Friend (also didn't have -- double yikes). The leader kicked out his tipped out 4.5 Camalot and would've cratered to the ground had he not fought through the crux essentially unprotected. When I lead it, I'm definitely taking my 6!! Jun 7, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
I though the steep handsize crack at the bottom was the crux. A #3 Big Bro is too small for the awkward offwidth section before the chimney, but a few moves higher are secure footholds and gear within the crack. I found a shoulder sling for the gear to be handy since I switched sides in the crack quite often, typical OWBS I suppose, but worth mentioning. Jul 10, 2002
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
This climb is not 5.9, I give it solid 5.10. Climb it an you be the judge. If climbed on the edge of the detached pillar the route is very very run out, but secure. The harder climbing is protected so do not be discouraged. You will need several number 5 camoltes to protect the 20 ft off width to chimney section above the crux. Once you can transition in to the chimney the climb's technically difficulty is over and the mental crux begins. At one of two point along the edge you will spy a thin crack that may take rp's and small cams but I did not take any since the guild book did not suggest small gear. TAKE SOME SMALL STUFF. At about 70ft up you can squirm to the other side of the pillar and find much gear and bolts on easier climbing. But that is a different climb, if you have make it this far and you head is good continue. NOTE, if rapping from the pillar make shure the knot is over the lip of the pillar else your rops will get stuck and you will be climbing the pillar again. Jul 16, 2002
This is a good Crack 'O Fear training climb, but if yer not in training, walk on past. It does not look 5.9! Aug 20, 2002
david goldstein
  5.9+
david goldstein  
  5.9+
One of the best pitches at Lumpy. Hidden holds keep showing up where you most want and least expect them.

I found it fairly well protected w/ 1 ea of the following large gear: #4 & #5 Camalot, #3 Big Bro. Take a full range of smaller gear for various side cracks.

Considerably easier than Mainstreet (10a) of Vedauwoo. Jul 26, 2003
Steve McCorkel
  5.9+
Steve McCorkel  
  5.9+
I don't often comment, but I climbed this yesterday and really enjoyed the first pitch. I used two #3s, a #4 and a #5 Camalot, some small cams and a couple of tiny wires. The protection felt comfortable enough. In the picture on this page, the #5 Cam fit near to where the Big Bro is shown, and to the left of where the climber is, a great off-set nut can be placed. The span between these two pieces could be considered the crux. After only one off-width move, it turns to a squeeze and becomes very secure (as seen in the photo) before even reaching the nut placement. Also, a #1 and #2 Camalot worked nice in the flakes a little higher up. A nice rap after the first pitch has been installed that's 100 feet down if you rap Wolf's Rooth. Then climb that. It's great, too. Oct 4, 2004
Danny
  5.9+
Danny  
  5.9+
Great route. I found this to be very sustained, and the "crux" for me was not immediately apparent. There was a good knee jam rest just below the crux for me. which allowed me to rest up and get the courage to go for it. The chimney section was a grade easier yet still very physical. Oct 24, 2005
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
I lead this great climb today using gear up to a #6 cam that can be shuffled up through the crux. I also placed a #4 Big Bro, but this is not crucial as the climbing has begun to ease by this point. RPs to a #2 Friend protect the chimney reasonably well keeping the run-out to a minimum (15ft). I tend to agree with Rossiter's guidebook comment that there may be a move or two of 10a, but this section is well protected with the #6 cam. Great climb- if you're thinking about climbing it get the right rack and go for it! Sep 12, 2007
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
I saw Bridwell flash the first pitch in about 5 min in the 70s. Afterwards, saw him at Komito's, one hardcore guy! Dec 11, 2007
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
We pulled a total gumby move, try to avoid this:

Lead, made an anchor up top, and lowered off to the start of Wolf's Tooth. While refueling, the wind blew the rope deep behind the pillar, and my partner had to re-lead the pitch. We just got lucky the 8 was out of the leader's end.

Bring your big stuff, and rock out! The 2nd pitch 5.9 is cool, and two/three moves long. Jul 10, 2009
Great route! A must do for offwidth practice. Sep 25, 2009
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
This is hands down one of the best climbs I've ever done at Lumpy regardless of the grade or style. The position is amazing, it's long, clean, physical, and simply bad-ass! I used a #4, #5, #6 Camalot (on top of a standard rack) and felt that to be just fine. An extra #6 wouldn't be out of the question if you have it and don't want to bump. The chimney protects just fine with nuts and a selection of cams from tips-#0.75 Camalots. However, you've got to be small enough to wriggle deep inside to reach it! Speaking of wriggling, this may be a climb where a helmet is more of a hindrance than a help. Felt just as difficult as Wolf's Tooth, but maybe I knew I'd have to try harder on this one....

This also makes a great date climb. Aug 24, 2014

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