Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 7,480 total · 31/month
Shared By: Erik Corkran on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

See Wolf's Tooth for basic location. This is the route that climbs the crack between the right side of the detached pillar and the main buttress of the Owl (Wolf's Tooth climbs the left side).

This is an excellent route, with very sustained climbing on the crack section of pitch one. The bottom is somewhat overhanging hand/fist crack, which opens to offwidth after about 25 feet. The offwidth continues to widen until it becomes a squeeze chimney after about 60 feet. Shortly before the squeeze the crack is too wide for a #5 Camalot. A #3-4 Big Bro could probably be placed here, but this placement may be difficult. I found one section near this point particularly confusing (took two tries) so I would say this is the crux. In general, the offwidth is steep and sustained, so people will probably find different points to be "the" crux. At about 60 feet, the crack becomes a chimney, and you can fit inside.

The chinney has a reputation for being run out. You can protect it with small gear IF you look around inside it and don't stay way out on the edge. You will not get gear every few feet, but I got several pieces in here.

This pitch is easier than Turnkorner's offwidth roof, but it is not your "average" 5.9. Placing gear and keeping it out of your way will be strenuous. The thought of falling into the dihedral while leaning out of it is not exactly comforting.

Pitch two provides a couple of choices, a 5.7 to the left, or thin 5.9 crack / corner on the right. I have not done the 5.9, but the 5.7 is a nice pitch. Climb turns into a scramble from here. Descend the Bowels of the Owls route (standard descent).

Protection

If it's big, bring it. Starts as hand & fist crack, but widens past #5 Camalot size. Bring Stoppers and smaller cams for the 2nd half of pitch one, and for pitch 2.

Photos