Avg: 3.6 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||7,480 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Erik Corkran on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
This is an excellent route, with very sustained climbing on the crack section of pitch one. The bottom is somewhat overhanging hand/fist crack, which opens to offwidth after about 25 feet. The offwidth continues to widen until it becomes a squeeze chimney after about 60 feet. Shortly before the squeeze the crack is too wide for a #5 Camalot. A #3-4 Big Bro could probably be placed here, but this placement may be difficult. I found one section near this point particularly confusing (took two tries) so I would say this is the crux. In general, the offwidth is steep and sustained, so people will probably find different points to be "the" crux. At about 60 feet, the crack becomes a chimney, and you can fit inside.
The chinney has a reputation for being run out. You can protect it with small gear IF you look around inside it and don't stay way out on the edge. You will not get gear every few feet, but I got several pieces in here.
This pitch is easier than Turnkorner's offwidth roof, but it is not your "average" 5.9. Placing gear and keeping it out of your way will be strenuous. The thought of falling into the dihedral while leaning out of it is not exactly comforting.
Pitch two provides a couple of choices, a 5.7 to the left, or thin 5.9 crack / corner on the right. I have not done the 5.9, but the 5.7 is a nice pitch. Climb turns into a scramble from here. Descend the Bowels of the Owls route (standard descent).