Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jimmy Dunn
Page Views: 2,187 total · 11/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Peaches and Cream is located on Twin Owls about 200 feet right of Crack of Fear when viewed from the base. It is the very obvious flake with an offwidth on its left side.

Begin to the left of the offwidth up an easy crack to a ledge. Walk to the base of the offwidth, strap on your holy shit boots and jump in. The funny thing about this climb is that it starts off with about 5.9 offwidth. You'll probably be thinking that you are doing pretty well. You might even think that you're going to send. Then, the crack opens up just a little and kicks back a lot. Suddenly, you're hopes of sending will flee in the form of grunts from your mouth. Start throwing the stacks and move. This line flares a bit so it is a really tight squeeze. If you can keep it together, you will be rewarded with some easy 5.8-5.9 liebacking after about 15 feet of punishing offwidth.

When I did this the anchor was webbing at the top of the flake. I have never seen anyone else on this climb, so it may be smart to bring some good webbing with you. Enjoy.

Protection

Bring gear from #0.75 to #5 Camalots with emphasis on wide stuff.

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