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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jimmy Dunn
Page Views: 2,036 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Peaches and Cream is located on Twin Owls about 200 feet right of Crack of Fear when viewed from the base. It is the very obvious flake with an offwidth on its left side.

Begin to the left of the offwidth up an easy crack to a ledge. Walk to the base of the offwidth, strap on your holy shit boots and jump in. The funny thing about this climb is that it starts off with about 5.9 offwidth. You'll probably be thinking that you are doing pretty well. You might even think that you're going to send. Then, the crack opens up just a little and kicks back a lot. Suddenly, you're hopes of sending will flee in the form of grunts from your mouth. Start throwing the stacks and move. This line flares a bit so it is a really tight squeeze. If you can keep it together, you will be rewarded with some easy 5.8-5.9 liebacking after about 15 feet of punishing offwidth.

When I did this the anchor was webbing at the top of the flake. I have never seen anyone else on this climb, so it may be smart to bring some good webbing with you. Enjoy.

Protection

Bring gear from #0.75 to #5 Camalots with emphasis on wide stuff.

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