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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Lawrence Stuemke & Dusty Hardman, 1991
Page Views: 74 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 23, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This line may draw your attention with the glint of light off the lone bolt sitting above a crack on the right end of the Lower Twin Owls. In Rossiter's guide, it is listed as a variation to Second Thoughts, 5.10a, with a more direct finish, hence the name. There is an obvious crack system behind a dead tree just to the right, which can be liebacked. There are more lines to play on here (One of Life's Little Problems & its 5.8 variation, Black Lichen Streak, Second Thoughts, Sunset Arete, and Thin Crack) on a sunny, windless, late fall or winter day.

Find this line by hiking up the Lower Twin Owls trail to nadir of the Lower Twin Owls buttress (where Tilted Mitten starts). Continue up & R on a trail until you come to a large RFD is described as an alcove in the Gillett guides. It is probably 400 ft up and R.

Fire up this deceptively-demanding crack which goes halfway up this short buttress just L of a dead tree (which lies 60 ft R of the large RFD). This crack is awkward to start and requires jamming off a sausage-sized L index finger jam and R hand gaston to pinches above. The difficulty eases until you can clip the bolt above. Here you have choices of desperate, steep slabbing directly above with a crux above the bolt (rated 10+ but felt 11b) or perhaps moving right (Second Thoughts, 5.10a) on feldspar knobs to a shallow slot up and right. Belay at a tree. 60 ft. Currently, there is no rappel anchor.

You can also reach this tree by climbing the start to One of Life's Little Problems (to #4 Camalot) and then traverse right (#2 Camalot) to the tree.

Protection

Wires, small cams, 1 QD, very sticky rubber.

Photos

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