Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Twin Owls
|
|
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
Arm and Hammer C2 |
|
|
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
|
|
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
|
|
Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
|
|
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Copperhead C3 |
|
|
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Hungry Man V5 6C |
|
|
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
King Cobra C2 |
|
|
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Rattler C3 |
|
|
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
True American Pinch V7-8 7B |
|
|
Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Viper C3- |
|
|
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R |
|
|
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | TR'd by many-Led by few |
| Page Views: | 809 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Roy Leggett on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is the right side start to W. Owl Direct. It is referred to in the guidebook as a TR, but I know of several people who have red-pointed it, and even a recent onsight lead. It is a bit spicy, but not unreasonable.
The start is unprotected and bouldery, and I would recommend anchoring the belayer as to not lose the climber and belayer down off the Roosting Ramp in the event of a fall from the starting moves. The flake/block at the start of the crack is loose and you should not place gear behind it or pull on it too aggressively. There are several great stopper placement and shallow cam placements on the climb. The crux takes an OK .5 Camalot, but an equivalent sized offset cam would be ideal.
The climbing is flared and sustained. The crux is a bit gymnastic and probably more difficult for shorter folks. This would be a proud start to Silly Puddy.
The start is unprotected and bouldery, and I would recommend anchoring the belayer as to not lose the climber and belayer down off the Roosting Ramp in the event of a fall from the starting moves. The flake/block at the start of the crack is loose and you should not place gear behind it or pull on it too aggressively. There are several great stopper placement and shallow cam placements on the climb. The crux takes an OK .5 Camalot, but an equivalent sized offset cam would be ideal.
The climbing is flared and sustained. The crux is a bit gymnastic and probably more difficult for shorter folks. This would be a proud start to Silly Puddy.
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments