Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: TR'd by many-Led by few
Page Views: 765 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roy Leggett on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is the right side start to W. Owl Direct. It is referred to in the guidebook as a TR, but I know of several people who have red-pointed it, and even a recent onsight lead. It is a bit spicy, but not unreasonable.

The start is unprotected and bouldery, and I would recommend anchoring the belayer as to not lose the climber and belayer down off the Roosting Ramp in the event of a fall from the starting moves. The flake/block at the start of the crack is loose and you should not place gear behind it or pull on it too aggressively. There are several great stopper placement and shallow cam placements on the climb. The crux takes an OK .5 Camalot, but an equivalent sized offset cam would be ideal.

The climbing is flared and sustained. The crux is a bit gymnastic and probably more difficult for shorter folks. This would be a proud start to Silly Puddy.

Protection Suggest change

Stoppers and cams to .5 Camalot. Doubles in the finger sizes. An offset cam equivalent to a .5/.75 Camalot would be nice.


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