Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth, 2004
Page Views: 1,235 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This all naturally protected route is a direct start to the almost forgotten multi-pitch route "Boots of Spanish Rubber" established by Kimball and Suzuki in 1984. It starts from the ground just left of the Central Chimney in a small, left-facing dihedral which turns left into an undercling roof. After passing the roof on the left, it traverses right on a thin crack (#2 TCU) to reach the flakes where Boots has its 5.11 crux for a few feet. This section of Boots is rated 11 R but protects well with small cams and nuts, although it is an insecure place to stop and place gear. The route traverses left above the flakes to the bolt placed for a belay on Riders on the Storm. This bolt was replaced and given a ring hanger which is equalized with a large nut in the crack just above to make a two piece anchor for this one-pitch test piece.

Protection

Cams from #3 Camalot to #2 TCU are helpful, and this route is a sew-up if wanted.

Photos

Roy Leggett
Lyons, CO
  5.12a/b PG13
Roy Leggett   Lyons, CO
  5.12a/b PG13
This is a great addition to Twin Owls. [Don't] underestimate it, it packs a punch. The gear is good....but you need to know where to place it. My belayer was telling me if the gear in the layback/ undercling flake was good because I [couldn't] really see it. Also, save a green alien for the traverse between the two cracks. Jul 28, 2005