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Twin Owls Climbing
Routes in Twin Owls
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Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Arm and Hammer C2 |
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Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
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Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Bush-league Beefcake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Copperhead C3 |
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Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hungry Man V5 6C |
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Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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King Cobra C2 |
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One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rattler C3 |
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Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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True American Pinch V7-8 7B |
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Turn, Turn, Turn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Viper C3- |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R |
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Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 8,260 ft |
| GPS: |
40.4029, -105.5188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 117,339 total · 459/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Jun 4, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.
Check the closures before heading here.
Check the closures before heading here.
Getting There
From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach.
Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Owls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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