Elevation: 8,260 ft
GPS: 40.403, -105.519 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 81,281 total · 369/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jun 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.

Check the closures before heading here.

Getting There

From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Owls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 34
Pin Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 65
Organ Pipes
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Central Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
East Ridge
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
Wolf's Tooth
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 109
Conan's Gonads (Conad's)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Tighter Squeeze
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Tiger's Tooth
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Rather Fight Than Switch
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Twister
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
Crack of Fear
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Peaches and Cream
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
 7
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty)
Trad, Aid
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
 3
Autumn Mist
Aid 3 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Anaconda
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pin Route
 34
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Organ Pipes
 65
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Central Chimney
 13
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
East Ridge
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Wolf's Tooth
 94
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Conan's Gonads (Conad's)
 109
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tighter Squeeze
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tiger's Tooth
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Rather Fight Than Switch
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Twister
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Crack of Fear
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Peaches and Cream
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
West Owl Direct (aka Silly…
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R Trad, Aid
Autumn Mist
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 Aid 3 pitches
Anaconda
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad
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