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Routes in Twin Owls

Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Anaconda T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Arm and Hammer C2
Autumn Mist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Black Lichen Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Boulder A4 R
Bowels of the Owls, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cavity, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Central Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Condones T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copperhead C3
Coyote T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Crack of Fear T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fist Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hungry Man V5 6C
Jamesia Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King Cobra C2
One of Life's Little Problems T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Organ Pipes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Parachute Pants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peaches and Cream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pin Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Prow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rather Fight Than Switch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler C3
Senseless Meaning T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sunset Arete T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Thimbleberry Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiger's Tooth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tighter Squeeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tilted Mitten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True American Pinch V7-8 7B
Twister T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Viper C3-
West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
Wolf's Tooth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Probably the best-named rock I've ever seen, Twin Owls is known for a collection of hard and often wide crack climbs, and is flanked by an fine assortment of satellite crags. Some notable routes include the legendary Crack of Fear (5.10d, very OW), Wolf's Tooth (5.8), Peaches and Cream (5.11+), East Ridge (5.8), and the Pin Route (5.4). Popular subsidiary cliffs include Rock One, Lower Owls, Hen and Chicken, and Gollum's Arch Rock, all of which are included below. Descent: find the saddle between the "Owls", and look for the "Bowels of the Owls", a deep chimney with some good-sized chocktones in it. Downclimb this (4th-5th class), or set up a rappel nearby. Don't get benighted on top. Subsidiary cliffs generally have self-explanatory descents.

Check the closures before heading here.

Getting There

From the new parking lot, head towards Lumpy Ridge on the left trail 0.7 miles, go right following the signs to Twin Owls. For the lower Twin Owls, take the first fork left. For the upper Twin Owls, continue right past the Lower Twin Owls trail split up about another 200 yards to the next split. Go left up towards Hen & Chickens, Roosting Ramp, and the Bowels of the Owls area. ~30 minutes to approach.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twin Owls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 28
Pin Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 57
Organ Pipes
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Central Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
East Ridge
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Wolf's Tooth
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Conan's Gonads (Conad's)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Tighter Squeeze
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Tiger's Tooth
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Rather Fight Than Switch
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 30
Crack of Fear
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Peaches and Cream
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R
 7
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty)
Trad, Aid
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
 3
Autumn Mist
Aid 3 pitches
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Anaconda
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pin Route
 28
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Organ Pipes
 57
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Central Chimney
 12
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
East Ridge
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Wolf's Tooth
 84
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Conan's Gonads (Conad's)
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tighter Squeeze
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tiger's Tooth
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Rather Fight Than Switch
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crack of Fear
 30
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Peaches and Cream
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
West Owl Direct (aka Silly…
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 R Trad, Aid
Autumn Mist
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 Aid 3 pitches
Anaconda
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Twin Owls »

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Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
I have always found the descriptions to the descent of the "[Bowels] of the [Owls]" somewhat confusing . Basically you head down what seems to start out to be straightforward easy class 4 down climb from the low point grassy area between the two summits. When u cliff out look to your left for rap slings around a boulder. You will be peering down what looks like a vertical cave about 25 feet deep. You can downclimb it but the walls are a little slick and quite often wet. You will probably want to lower any packs/ropes etc. down the well first as it is quite narrow. Once you make it safely down the well, you are basically down to terra firma. There is a great trail down the eastern side (You can also hike down the western side) which eventually joins the [Gem Lake] trail. Sep 3, 2005
Danny  
Comment on the descent. If you are going up for the first time be sure you know where the Bowls are b/c if you descend in the wrong chimney it will be bad. My first time up there I accidentally descended the Central Chimney thinking it was the Bowels-honest mistake. Anyway this turned out to be a mini epic that could have resulted in much worse than the slings and rings I ended up leaving. Oct 24, 2005
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
The Bowels decent is straightforward but avoid the chimney cave. There is a great rap station (2 slings + 2 biners) hiding under a large block descender's right and just before the cave on the Bowels of the Owls decent. Basically instead of stepping left around a ledge to get to the cave, go straight to where it cliffs out and look under the large flat block.

This rap is clean and does not require going in the chimney as I have heard reported elsewhere. There is an anchent bolt stub on this block so apparently its not a new idea.

This is much easier than spelunking in the cave. 50 m rope is fine. Aug 2, 2009

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